Conventional Wisdom

The below is an article written by NYS member Andrew Sinclair about Green Pond climbing.
 

Discovery is supposed to involve remoteness (Dr. Robert Dickinson, 1930). 

Climbing in NJ has mostly gone unnoticed, but that in fact it has a long history, traceable in scattered papers and articles and attested to by old climbing gear still found from time to time in NJ rock.  NJ’s climbing has a marginal recorded history from access limitations.  In 2006, the NJ State Park Service implemented a climbing wavier system.  With expanded legal, access, formally closed sites are now open for climbing.   Climbers are starting to expose old, rusted ring iron and other forged pitons.  We have uncovered as well an old 1940 era square bolt line placed under one of the roofs at Cranberry Ledges.   Here in the most densely populated State, such discovery’s allow the question:  who placed this climbing hardware and when ?  This article examines the history of rock climbing in NJ.

Conventional wisdom holds that in 1935 Fritz Weisneer spied to the NW of the Hudson Highlands Breakneck Ridge, NY a white escarpment now known as the Shawnagunks.  The rest of the “Gunks” climbing history,  as we know, is history.   A “tomte” clapped it’s  hands , joined with Rip Van Winkle, and, lucky for climbing Weisneer appeared at the “Gunks”.  Before Weisneer was climbing in the Highlands someone was there first.  Someone made the trails that lead to the cliffs at Breakneck Ridge.  Someone forged the paths to the base of the cliffs on the Timp and to the various other cliffs, crags and rocky bluffs found throughout the Ramapo Mountains, the North Jersey and the Hudson Highlands.     Who were they those who built these trails  and did they climb in the Highlands ?  Such trails were placed by hikers and climbers in the early 1920’s.  Today the New York-New Jersey Trail Conference (http://www.nynjtc.org) has partnered with State Parks and hiking clubs  to create, protect, and promote a network of over 1,800 miles of public trails in the New York-New Jersey metropolitan region.

In the Waterman’s seminal Yankee Rock and Ice there is reference to climbing unroped, on the Timp Face and in the Ramapo Torn in 1908.  A documented climbing injury, rescue and evacuation to a local health clinic of the day is found in the August 12, 1909 NY Times Newspaper.  The article documents a 14 year old boy climbing on Green Pond Mountain, NJ. 

Excerpt from the 1909 NY Times Newspaper Article

At the base of Green Pond Mountain and escarpment was the summer camp of the United Boys Brigade.  Modeled after the UK/Welsh/Scottish Boys Brigades activities for youth included rowing and hill tramping.  {Hill tramping in Wales at the turn of the century lead to roped rock climbing techniques}.  3 youth from the camp were ascending the 180 foot high cliff as a “right of passage”  for all in the Camp.  The one youth dislodged a rock on he boy below and broke his leg and rendered him unconscious.  A multi-hour rescue ensued, caped by a dash along the dirt roads of that period in the back seat of a Model “T” Ford to Hackettstown Hospital. The boy made a  complete recovery.

The 1921 edition of the New York Walk Book has a pen and ink sketch of 2 people climbing w/ a rope.  It follows a written specific account of climbing the Palisades.   These documented references attest to climbing in and around the North Jersey Highlands before 1935.

New Jersey’s Landforms, the North Jersey Highlands

Large swatches of the North Jersey Highlands remain unchanged since the days Indians roamed the hills, valleys and along the ridge tops.  Today State Parks, Forests, Private Land-Owners, Public agencies and Highlands Protection Area all work to protect NJ’s unique Highland’s landscape.

The majority of climbing in NJ takes place on the NJ Highlands.  This physiologic land region runs in a northeastward direction from the Delaware River.  The Highlands are about 20 miles wide, and compose an area of around 900 square miles. Of this over 80,000 acres remains undisturbed and free from development.  The rugged elevation of the Highlands averages 1,000 feet above sea-level, with massive, exposed craggy, parallel running ridges and deep valleys.   Rock outcroppings are abundant along ridge crests.  The 7 mile long Greenwood Lake bisects the Highlands.  To the west are Bearfort, Kanouse, Copperas and Green Pond Mountains.  To the east the Highlands are a continuation of the lower highlands of New York State and are known as the Hudson Highlands.  In the middle of this rugged land mass are the equally rugged and craggy Ramapo Mountains and the Ramapo Torne.  Here the highlands are considered an extension of the Shawangunk Ridge.  The area in question in this article is within 40 miles of New York City and the densely populated towns and cities of North Jersey. 

Green Pond, the Crown Jewel of NJ Climbing

An early published account of ascending the escarpment at Green Pond Mountain is found in the April 1860 Harper’s Weekly Magazine.  Here the writer describes taking the stagecoach from NYC to the stage stop within the Pequannock Gap and lodged in the small hamlet of Newfoundland.  As a quick aside the stage stop is now the Newfoundland bus stop for NJ Transit buses for easy access to the area.  In 1860 the writer covers not only the characteristics of the geological features at the cliff but also hiking around the local iron forges and furnaces with a local guide.   His pen and ink illustrations clearly show Green Pond and other local cliffs.  His description of hiking across bogs and rock terrain to reach Green Pond is as adept today as it was in 1860.    The rugged Green Pond region is part of 70,000 acres of protected Newark Watershed and NJ State Lands.  The local topography remains as undisturbed today as it was in 1860. 

In this area development and sprawl is contained and held in check.  If one hiked today from the bus stop at Newfoundland to Green Pond one will cross a meandering river valley, then wade across a marshy flood plain, then a huge bog and marsh, then surmount a large open expansive talus field.  From here one reaches the eastern shore of Green Pond Lake.  All areas mentioned in the 1860 article.  The 1860 author describes the ascent and view looking down the escarpment to the valley below.

If one drills down deep into the Highlands history one comes across refences to Robert Erskine, the first Surveyor General of George Washington’s Continental Army.  Erskine was a local in the Highlands and in the 1700’s resided in Ringwood, NJ.  What he knew of the Highlands topography he learned while surveying lands for local iron mines and forges.  His maps, even today, reference the craggy overlooks from where he had placed his sentry’s to protect the Highlands from the British Army.  This is not climbing but it provides recognition that the Highlands have a robust natural, craggy character.  Tory Ledges, Windbeam Mountain, Kanouse Mountain, Green Pond Mountain , Copperas Mountain and other summits allow one to see down across the Highlands plateau.  In the distance 40 miles away the NYC Skyline. 

Preceding Erskine are references to the Highlands as home to Native Americans.  Indian rock shelters and other traces of these early inhabitants are present in the Highlands.   Indian trails, iron mining roads and colonial footpaths traversed the Highlands.  By the early 1900’s the Highlands natural beauty was recognized.  Governor Theodore Roosevelt and other concerned individuals were the catalyst for outdoor recreation in and around NYC and the surrounding metropolitan region.  By the 1920’s , and through the efforts of numerous local hiking clubs a growing system of trails weaved through the Highlands.  By some published estimates over 400 miles.  By 1931 these loose federations of local and regional trial/hiking clubs joined together under the umbrella of the NY-NJ Train Conference. The trail conference are the stewards of the regional trail system.  Climbers use these trails to reach climbing and bouldering areas throughout the Highlands.

Access Changes Conventional Wisdom

The first time I was taken out for roped climbing was in 1974 on Kanouse Mountain slabs.  One of the neighbor’s trussed me to a harness and well the climbing bug was set.  Having grown up on the northwest side of Green Pond Mountain many a day was spent on the cliff’s found along the escarpment’s eastern end.  The earliest I can recall a climbing story was from the late ‘60s or early 70’s of a local teen who fell on the Green Pond cliffs and broke his back.  

Direct anecdotal evidence indentifies that the North Jersey Caving Grotto used the cliffs in a 1950’s movie on caving and climbing techniques.   John Rogers who folks owned the local liquor store documented some of his 1973 climbs on Green Pond w/ photographs.  Steve O’Keefe and others climbed on the cliffs in the early 1980’s.  His out-of- print (xerox copied) climbing guide only covers the eastern end of Green Pond Mountain.  Climbing has taken place on the eastern end of Green Pond Mountain since then and only very intermittently.  These climbs were documented in Neil Sloane’s and Paul Nicks Rock Climbing in NJ Guide (s).  In 2006  Green Pond climbing was exposed by a Matt Carlardo cover shot and associated article in Appalachia Magazine of a climber on one of Green Pond’s classic 5.10 routes.  

We local climbers like the wild, remote character of the area  so mum we stayed.  That and until recently it was illegal to climb on the site. 

Green Pond Mountain is 1,289 feet above sea level.  It’s numerous cliffs, some taller then 180 feet have seen roped ascents since the 1950’s .  These cliffs on the eastern end of Green Pond Mountain are of a “pudding stone” pink granite conglomerate and range from 75 to 120 feet in height.  Climbs are short usually one or two pitches.  Loose rock is found so one’s rock-craft must take into account objective hazards.  A well established 4^th class trail can be used as descent and runs the full length of this section of the cliff.  1.8 miles from these cliffs and further down, to the west,  the Green Pond ridge are the cliffs at Craigmeir of which little is known (Sloane and Nick, NJ Crags, 1996 Chockstone Press).  Green Pond Mountain is managed by both State and Local governmental agencies.   The expansion of access grows a further chapter of NJ’s climbing history

Craigmier or Hawks Cliff

The other band of cliffs on Green Pond Mountain is found behind the old Craigmeir Ski Area.  These cliffs are named in the 1950 NY-NJ Trail Conference’s Hiker Region map as “Hawks Cliffs”.  This is the same cliff mentioned in the 1909 NY Times article where the 14 year old was injured.  This section of the Green Pond escarpment is 180 to 220 feet high and around 2,000 feet in length.  At the base of these cliffs is a wonderful, large and complex talus field.  The adjacent talus field woodlands and in the associated clefts along the Highland Ridge place one in a true forgotten, remote corner of NJ.  Over the years and despite the illegal nature of trespassing some climbing took place on Hawks Cliff.  Being caught by the land-managers was just not worth the risk.  In 2010 that equation started to flex.  Legal access under very tight and specific stipulations has been allowed by the Morris County Park System.    While establishing climbs on the cliff a striking and unexpected element took place.  At 3 locations on Hawks Cliff  old ring or iron pitons have been found. In another location a WW 2 era (stamped US) carabineer was found buried under leaves. Interest in who climbed in the area grew. 

In doing further research on the cliffs after I was invited to speak about NJ’s climbing history at the 2011 annual meeting of the NJ Highlands Historical Society a few surprises took place.  A 1874 published article in the NY Times directly mentions how one can take public transportation to Newfoundland and do a circuit hike at the Green Pond cliffs.  The article identifies how the cliffs are home to one of the largest colonies of  mountain laurel (kalmia latifolia) in the Highlands.  Having climbed on the site I can attest to the blankets of mountain laurel on the cliff.  In the summer months the site is fully covered with these flowering shrubs.  This adds to the sites remote character.  Further, in the article, it discusses the Highland’s summer resorts around Green Pond and how one can take “guided excursions” to the cliffs.  Such summer resorts were used to “promote rest, recreation and a change of the environment”.  The claim was also made the area is free of mosquitoes.  Rest assured, today when climbing on the Green Pond Cliffs them type of biting flying critters and more are present.  While climbing stay alert for wasps.

Craigmier and the 10^th Mountain Division

Craigmier Ski Area has a provocative place in the climbing history of Hawks Cliff and the region.  Craigmier was first opened in 1937.  Just down the road to the South sits Lake Telemark and the present home of the Tokle Family.  Several Swiss immigrants searched for the perfect place in New Jersey to build the first ski area in New Jersey. They finally opened their ski area on property that Hugo Meury purchased in 1937. The people who built the ski jumps at Craigmeur also helped build and run events at some of the other local jumps. In the 1940s through the 1960s there were small ski jumps at Lake Telemark, just up the road from the Craigmeur Ski Area. Competitions were held there by the Odin Ski Club. Art Tokle, Sr and his family were some of the well known jumpers that participated in events at the Craigmeur ski jump. 

During the mid 1930s many of New York City's top department stores like Bamberger's, Bloomingdales, Wannamakers and Sax Fifth Avenue were all selling ski equipment and ski clothing in their stores. Some of the stores also sponsored the early ski trains out to the local ski areas. Ski trains and buses used to run from New York City out to several of New Jersey's ski areas. The Craigmeur Ski Area was one of them.

A train station was located just off Route 23 in Newfoundland near the old stage coach stop. The train allowed skiers access to Craigmier.  From the train stop skiers would be shuttled up the mountain in buses to Craigmeur. Even back then many others also drove to the ski area. Olympic ski jumper and coach Art Tokle, Sr. died on March 3, 2005 at age 82, sixty years to the day after his brother, world champion Torger Tokle, was killed while fighting with the 10th Mountain Division near Iola, Italy.

The 10^th Mountain Division role and place in America’s climbing history is well known.  While conducting research for this article I was introduced to the Torkle legend.  Numerous personal interviews and telephone phone discussions confirmed that members of the 10^th Mountain Division when they returned from the WW 2 skied at Craigmier  and also worked on the ski patrol at Craigmier.   Some of the veterans took up residence in North Jersey and in the Highlands.  I was unable to place a direct connection between these veteran and climbing at Hawk’s Cliff.  It is suggestive, through both gear just now being found on the cliffs and through a climbing mindset that some of these veterans may have climbed on Green Pond.  Access to the cliff from the bottom of the ski runs is easily achieved and about a 10 to 15 walk.   I find it hard to believe that folks who climbed then would not have climbed on these cliffs.  Further research is being undertaken to clarify this element of Green Pond’s climbing history.

Future Access to  Green Pond’s Hawks Cliffs  (2010-2012)

Hawks Cliffs timeline for climbing was ramped up a few notches in 2010.

According to Andrew Sinclair and John Anderson who, along with 12 other experienced climbers, have been conducting a series of test climbs at the Craigmeur Recreation Area and the Merner tract, since 2010 the Green Pond  cliffs feature some of the most committing multi-pitch routes in New Jersey.  Set in a pristine Highlands setting, the cliffs offer a rare opportunity for true adventure climbing and first ascents of traditional routes and boulder problems.

The climbers involved in these test climbs include professional mountain guides from Alpine Endeavors and REI Inc.; the owners of two local rock-climbing gyms; members of the Gunk’s (short for Shawungunk Mountains) Climber’s Coalition in New Paltz, New York; and members of the Appalachian Mountain Club.  Mr. Sinclair also believes that Green Pond Mountain has some of the most beautiful vistas anywhere in the state, and most of the climbers agree that the cliffs could be a major rock-climbing destination in the area. 

One of the climbers stated in a survey that is being conducted on the climbs that “Green Pond’s high-quality rock is very similar to the kind of very stable rock that draws climbers to the Mohonk Preserve in New York.”  Mohonk is in the Shawungunk Mountains, which loom across the skyline of  New Paltz.

There are 10 distinct traditional climbing areas at the cliffs at Craigmier, from west to east they are:  Bowling Alley West, Bowling Alley, Bowling Alley East, Hanging Block, Jenga Arête, Cinca de Mayo, Blue Vulture Wall, Yellow Face, Ursa Roof, and Goldline Ledge (so called for an old goldline rope found on the ledge in 2010).  Jenga is the mid-point of the cliffs.  These are the area names given by the climbers—the locals may refer to them differently.

What makes the Green Pond cliffs so unique is the bona-fide remoteness and talus field below them.  The talus field lies between the cliffs and the bouldering wall. Below the talus is the bouldering wall, ranging from 15-35 feet high.  There is also bouldering along the entire base of the cliffs.  The Morris County Park Commission has approved the climbers request to continue to climb over the course of 2012.

It must be stressed that climbing at Craigmeur, if it is allowed to fully develop, requires experience, skill, sharp mental and physical focus—in other words, a solid foundation in rock craft!  If you’ve never climbed, Hawk’s Cliff and Green Pond Mountain isn’t the place to start on your own!

 Climbing in the Western North Jersey Highlands

20 miles southwest from Green Pond Mountain sits Cranberry or Panther Ledge.  This 60 acre site is an old quarry and is protected by a private landowner.  Access is limited.  John Mauzri and friends  were known to have climbed on the site in the mid 1970’s.  In the late 1980’s while climbing on the site we noticed a line of 5, 1940’s era square cut bolts running out under one of the roofs.  A ongoing review of published field notes of Robert Torrey and other unknown individuals identifies that the Cranberry Ledge site was known to people who tramped around the Highlands in the 1930’s and 1940’s.   The site is briefly mentioned in the 1951 edition of the  NY-NJ Walk Book.  It is hoped that this article will bring further information about the site.  Until then who and when they were placed is a mystery.  The same holds true for old rusted, 1940 era pins found on the SW end of Musconetcong Mountain.

Stewardship and Access

Climbing access has a price.  Respect that which gives so much back to us who climb on this unique and fragile resource.  Green Pond cliffs are sensitive, they are basically untouched by man.  The point has to be stressed that as access for climbing increases in the Highlands the greater responsibility and accountability is for climbers to protect and preserve the fragile eco-systems of the Highlands. Collecting of any type of resource is not only illegal but unethical.  Such behavior if witnessed must be reported.   It is important to note that this article does not create a perpetual right of way for climbing access.  Access in and around the Highlands is more often then not under specific stipulations.  Respect such restrictions.  Access equals restrictions and a warning of necessity.  History, conservation and stewardship anchor NJ’s long-term foundation of rock climbing. 

Conclusion

Percy Olton in his 1938 article in Appalachia Magazine on Rock Climbing in the Highlands ends with the following enigmatic statement.  “For ten years as climbing routes became hackneyed others appear.  There are other sites for climbing in the Highlands, many routes are not mentioned”. In the 1926 NY Times column, Robert Torrey states, “other sites for climbing are found in and around the Highlands, notwithstanding the discomfort to reach”.    

In 2009 we did an approach to a 3 pitch Highland’s  ridge climb.  Route rated 5.4 .  Our 2 hour hike took us across a 300 yard wide cat-briar patch and then across a knee-deep swamp to reach the base of the climb.   The discomfort was real, the pain from the briars real,  the reward a stunning NJ vista of undisturbed ridges and down a Highlands glen.   

Did climbing take place on NJ’s remote Green  Pond Hawk Cliff’s, Yes.  When and who placed these recently exposed ring iron pitons is an unknown.  Secrets of rock climbing in NJ remain to be uncovered. 

Bibliography

Torrey, Raymond; Place, Frank; Dickinson, Robert:  New York Walk Book , 1921/1951, American Geographical Society, New York City.  (later editions included in this reference)
Harpers Magazine, April, 1860:  Artist Life in the Highlands.
New York Times Newspaper                         
July 24, 1874, Summer Resorts of the Highlands, Climbing Experience.     
August 12, 1909,  Climbing Accident on Green Pond.                                                                                
May 2, 1926, Rock Climbing in the Hudson Highlands.
September 12. 1926,  Climbing in the Highlands , Raymond Torrey.
August 7, 1927, Thrills in Rock Climbing,  the Newest Craze.  M.E. MeQ
October 4, 1936, Up the Faces of Rocks, the Sport of Rock Climbing Provides Thrills in Many
Nearby Mountainous Sections., Dorothy Anderson (no relation to the author)
June 5, 1932, The Wilds at the City Gates
April 4, 1939, Climber is Killed Entangled by Rope, Gary Bloch and the Fatality of Irving Feingen.
April 30, 1950, Climbing Mountains Near NYC., Nathan Nitken.
Appalachia Magazine., Appalachian Mountain Club, Boston, Massachusetts
November, 1927, Lincoln O’Brian, Robert Underhill and Percy Olton                                                                               
Rock Climbing in the New York Highlands.
June 1938, Percy Olton, New York Rock Climbs.
Waterman, Laura; and Waterman, Guy:  Yankee Rock and Ice.
Sloane, Neil and Nick, Paul:  Jersey Crags, Chockstone Press (1996).
O’Keefe, Steve; Rock Climbers Guide to Green Pond, Xerox Copy, 1982.
Wissler, Clark.; The Indians of Greater New York and Lower Hudson, American Museum of Natural History, 1909.
January, 2012.  Morris County Park Commission, Employee Newsletter. Cliffs at Craigmier
Fall 2011:  Personal Interviews:  Mr. Tokle, Steve O’Keefe, John Maurzi, John Rogers, A. Sinclair, others.