American Alpine Club - New York Section

2/21/2012 Event - Peru and the Mountains of the Cordillera Blanca - Trekking, Climbing and Painting

2012-02-10T16:44:00.000-08:00

Janet Morgan and Greg Frux present:
"Peru and the Mountains of the Cordillera Blanca"
Trekking, Climbing and Painting

Images, video and talk on our travels in one of the most beautiful high mountain ranges in the world.

February 21st, 6 p.m., Tuesday Evening Hour, Inc.
49 Fulton Street, Manhattan, near South Street Seaport

Alpinist Kurt Diemberger + Philip Liberman, Brainwave: Rubin Museum of Art, February 29

2012-01-31T04:47:00.000-08:00

RUBIN MUSEUM OF ART
presents BRAINWAVE

Mind the Altitude
Kurt Diemberger + Philip Lieberman

Wednesday, February 29
7:00 PM
$20/18 for Rubin Museum Members/5 Student Rush
Ticket includes:
6:15 Mnemonic Art Tour in the galleries
6:45 Karma Chain on the spiral staircase
7:00 Program in the theater
8:30 Book signing

Alpinist Kurt Diemberger sits down with mountaineer and neuroscientist Dr. Philip Lieberman to explore how memories are shaped by extreme environments and how the brain copes with the effects of altitude.

The accomplished alpinist Kurt Diemberger, born in Austria in 1932, is one of the world's most influential climbers. He is the only living person to have the distinction of two first ascents on the world's 8,000-meter peaks, both climbed without supplemental oxygen. He is the author of two fascinating autobiographical works, Summits & Secrets and Spirits of the Air. His portrayal of K2 The Endless Knot is especially powerful given that he was one of only two climbers to have survived the 1986 disaster on the world’s second-highest mountain in 1986.

Presented in association with the American Alpine Club (NY Chapter).

For tickets and full details visit: www.rmanyc.orc/brainwave

RUBIN MUSEUM OF ART

150 WEST 17TH STREET, NEW YORK CITY 1 www.rmanyc.org 212.620.5000 x344

Now in its fifth year, Brainwave brings people from diverse walks of life together to engage with neuroscientists in one-on-one conversations in order to better understand the workings of our minds.

Starting February 2012 we will focus on how memory is processed in the brain. “Central Asia is home to some of world culture’s greatest feats of memory. The 12th century epic poem of King Gesar, the early mythic king of early Tibet, is assessed at a million verses long, for example. Tibetan Buddhist culture in particular makes use of ‘artificial memory’ in retaining sacred teachings through the form of elaborate iconography in painted and sculptural form. In this year’s series we will look at the role of memory has played in the past, and the debatable role it plays in our contemporary cut-and-paste culture.” - Tim McHenry

Presenting Sponsor: METLIFE FOUNDATION

Brainwave 2012 is made possible, in part, by support from the Frederick P. Lenz Foundation for American Buddhism.

Alpine Club Winter Outing, More Pics

2012-01-25T07:18:00.000-08:00

At the Alpine Club outing on Saturday, January 21st, 2012, Wayne Wilson, Joe DiSaverio, Mark Fedow, Dan Hughes, and I hiked/climbed up Ampersand Mountain on the west edge of the Adirondacks past Saranac.

Driving in light snowfall we were lucky to have mistakenly gotten offroute early on so that we only got to the trailhead at 11 am, because then the snowfall was diminishing. A group of seven left the parking turnout when we arrived, and we passed it shortly thereafter, and we broke trail on only a few inches of snow on black ice, but within a half hour or so we put on crampons to cope with steepening icy terrain, then proceeded at a nice pace, getting to the summit in just over two hours in bright sunshine with surprisingly still air.

The top is bare rock with good views to the south and west, and we had it all to ourselves--unlike warm weather when hikers swarm it. The photos don't do it justice.

Coming down was tougher because of the ice, but our only casualty was a broken ski pole on a slide over an iced boulder, and we were back at Rock and River in daylight (wondering about when that group of seven would get down).

--John Tiernan

Fedow, Wilson, Disaverio

Lake Southeast of Ampersand

Wilson, Fedow, Hughes

Vic Benes on Hot Shot, Chapel Pond Canyon

2012-01-24T18:15:00.000-08:00

More Adirondack Winter Outing Photos

2012-01-24T16:52:00.000-08:00

AAC Weekend in the Adirondacks

2012-01-23T19:37:00.000-08:00

Thanks to everyone that made it up to the Keene and Lake Placid, NY area for a great winter outing. Special thanks to Sarah Garlick and Kaji Sherpa for being our esteemed guests. Climbers enjoyed ice climbing, skiing, winter mountaineering, cross country skiing, and relaxing with each others company around the fireplace in the Climbers Lodge.

Here is Kaji ice climbing on Saturday. The Waterfall Poke-o-Moonshine

Vic Benes belaying Joe Yanuzzi To the right Ron Bixby observing
Waterfall, Poke-O-Moonshine

Michael Schelenker and Martin Torresquintero

AAC Winter Outing Now Open to Members

2012-01-03T21:13:00.001-08:00

New York Section Winter Outing
Adirondack Rock & River, Keene, New York
January 20-22, 2012

One of our most popular seasonal events, always a sell-out, is our Annual Winter Outing at Rock and River, now in its second decade.
All sort of winter sports are at our doorstep: xc skiing on the Jack Rabbit Trail or at Mt. Van Hoevenberg, ice Climbing at Chapel Pond and elsewhere,
Snowshoeing and Hiking in the High Peaks, Downhill at Whiteface, among other activities too numerous to mention.

As in past years, we have booked the entire facility for the exclusive use of NY Section members and guests. There will be an optional clinic and instruction for beginning ice climbers on Saturday, with all equipment provided, at R&R's private ice climbing park. More advanced instruction or guide services are
also available.

A highlight of the weekend is our Saturday Happy Hour by a roaring fire followed by a buffet dinner and a slide show or two. This year we will feature a
presentation by AAC NE Regional Coordinator and a professional guide, Sarah Garlick, who recently returned from exploratory rock climbing and a first ascent
in Northern Mozambique with Majka Burhardt. Also joining us as a special guest is Kaji Sherpa, who once held the speed record on Everest( 21 hours)

We have very limited accommodations still available at R&R; more is available at local inns or motels. We also welcome members and guests for Saturday
cocktails , dinner and the show only, up to the seating capacity of the dining room.

For more specific details and charges, including availability of rides from Manhattan, please contact Phil Erard at philiperard@nysalpineclub.org
or call 917-617-5891

Prince of the Himalyas Movie Now at the Rubin

2011-12-20T19:41:00.000-08:00

Rescued from film distribution limbo (Buddhists might see this as a form of movie bardo), Sherwood Hu’s high-altitude Hamlet gets its first US theatrical run at the Rubin starting this week. Shakespeare’s tale set in medieval Tibet was praised for its “sublime vision and originality” by Variety when it was showcased back in 2006. Now we all have the chance to see why.

“Prince of the Himalayas is that rara avis in the world of cinema – a film that is genuinely new and different.” – Hollywood Reporter

Make Prince of the Himalayas your holiday treat by ordering tickets here.

Canadian Rockies Trip Report from AAC Members

2011-12-13T09:44:00.000-08:00

Three AAC members, Janet Morgan, Matt Powell and Gregory Frux reunited for a third adventure of 2011, this time traveling to the Canadian Rockies for hiking, scrambling and painting during late August and September.

Powell and Frux’s original plan was to base climbs at the Alpine Club of Canada’s Neil Colgan Hut, the highest lodging in Canada. This program was sunk by weather on both coasts-- Hurricane Irene delayed a flight and then snow socked the Rockies. The team modified their program, basing themselves at a motel in lieu of the hut. They picked several 10,000 foot high peaks which could be hiked and scrambled as single day routes.

Their first mountain, Eiffel Peak (elev. 10,118 ft), was an adventure. Arriving early at the Moraine Lake trailhead they discovered a park service sign indicating that it was mandatory to travel in groups of four or more due to grizzly bear activity. Fortunately they were able to locate a couple in the parking lot that was also interested in the route. The climb started on good trails through deep forest above Moraine Lake. After climbing 1500 vertical feet they broke out of the forest and the cloud cover into alpine meadows for views of the lake and surrounding mountains. From this point they left the formal trail and began hiking up a gradual ridge into the sky. Only on the upper portion did it become a scramble. The last five hundred feet were a little sketchy because of snow covered rock, but careful route finding got them through a band of steeper rock via a gulley. A snowy system of ledges led the party to the summit, which yielded panoramic views of the range.

Matt Powell and Greg Frux next tagged Observation Peak (10,414 ft), which required nearly 4000 vertical feet of scrambling. A particular charm to the summit vista was the view of the Wapta Icefield, which the team had traversed two years earlier. Matt went on to climb the huge Mount Temple (11,624 ft.) solo, a route featuring a challenging 5600 feet of climbing, including class three and four terrain. Frux and Janet Morgan stayed at Lake Louise and did paintings of that massive mountain as well as Moraine Lake. The following day the team took a rest and visited Banff Hot Springs.

Mt. Temple, 9” x 12” oil on panel by Gregory Frux

Moraine Lake Glacier Top, watercolor by Janet Morgan

The last hike that the group did was up into the Little Yoho Valley, a location first explored by a party led by Edward Whymper in 1901. The route began at Takkakaw Falls, second highest waterfall in Canada, 1260 vertical feet of pulsing, bouncing cascades. The route was a gentle seven mile walk that climbed through primordial forests before gradually breaking out into alpine meadows surrounded by big peaks to the north and south, The team arrived at the ACC Stanley Mitchell Hut in early afternoon. Matt and Greg awoke at 4 AM and headed off to climb Mount President (10,296 ft). They reached the glacier at dawn and stood on top of the summit before ten a.m. It was another mountain with sweeping views up and down the Rockies and especially to the Wapta Ice Field. For Gregory Frux, this was his 65th summit over 10,000 feet and for Mr. Powell his 63rd. The descent was accomplished as rapidly as was safe, and after reuniting with Janet at the base of the climb, the group walked the seven miles out to the car, arriving at 6 PM.

At this point Matt Powell headed home. Janet and Greg stayed the ACC Elizabeth Parker Hut at Lake O’Hara for the next six days . This is a gem of the Canadian Rockies and Frux and Morgan were very fortunate to win a lottery to get lodging at the hut. They painted watercolor and oil paintings most days, and did two moderate hikes. The location is enhanced by superb trails, mostly constructed by Lawrence Grassi in the 1950s. He was a retired coal miner and alpinist who adored the place; he moved tons of rocks to create secure trails and even stairs along cliff sides and tops. Special thanks to the late Mr. Grassi and to the Alpine Club of Canada for their hospitality.

NYS Annual Dinner Recap

2011-12-07T09:54:00.000-08:00

Susan Schwartz and John Harlin III at the Annual Dinner

Reprinted from Rock and Ice
John Harlin can cover a lot of ground--of all kinds. Three months ago he achieved an inventive and adventurous goal, to traverse the entire Swiss border by climbing, cycling and paddling.

“I love the contrast [in the Alps] – going back and forth between the land of glaciers and rock, the verticality, and then down into the green, living world," says Harlin, who recently spoke at the New York section of the American Alpine Club. "This sense of joy comes from the transition.” Interrupted by a 35-foot fall on mountain terrain in which Harlin sustained a badly broken foot, the trip spanned a year.

It was a Swiss treat all the way for this year’s version, held November 12, of the perennially sold-out and stand-out black-tie dinner held by the New York section at the Union Club, New York.

Harlin spoke movingly of the climbing and emotional heritage that he had inherited from his father, the legendary climber John Harlin, Jr. John was 9 when his father had died in 1962 when his rope snapped 200 feet below the summit during an attempt of the first American ascent of the North Face of the Eiger.

John Harlin III’s presentation at the Section Dinner traced his legacy from his father through to the present day. It has shaped his life and has been chronicled in his book The Eiger Obsession, and the IMAX film The Alps.

Phil Erard, section leader, planned a Swiss-themed evening around Harlin’s presentation. Goody bags included sumptuous Swiss chocolates, the dinner menu was Swiss, and the live auction featured two business class tickets on Swiss Air. The “opening act” speaker before John Harlin was the longtime AAC member and surgeon Sherman Bull, who participated with a team of disabled combat veterans, led by the blind mountaineer Erik Weihenmayer, training to climb Lobuche (20,075-feet).

Phil Erard had opened the festivities with this description of the New York Section: “Between socializing and drinking, we actually do some climbing.”

Into the Silence : The Great War, Mallory, and the Conquest of Everest - Monday December 12, 2011

2011-12-02T11:16:00.000-08:00

The 1924 Everest expedition team, with (rear left and second left) Sandy Irvine and George Mallory, whose deaths left an enduring mystery. Photograph: The Times/Camera Press Digital

Please join members of the American Alpine Club's New York Section at the Explorers Club in New York on Monday December 12th, 2011 for this exciting presentation.

Reception: 6:00 - 7:00 p.m.
Lecture: 7:00 - 8:00 p.m.
Optional Buffet Dinner: 8:00 p.m.
Wade Davis is a well known writer, lecturer, ethnographer and licensed river guide. He also holds the title of National Geographic Explorer in Residence.

In this magnificent book and illustrated talk, Davis shows the link between the British ascents of Everest in the 1920’s and the influence of imperialism and the aftereffects of WWI.

Tickets for the Reception and Lecture only are available for $20. While there may be seats available at the door, advance purchase is highly recommended. A post lecture buffet dinner, by advanced reservation and payment only, is available for an additional $35.
To reserve please call 212-628-8383 with credit card information.

Davis’s talks invariably sell out, so do not delay in putting this event on your calendar...

Sophie Denis Summits Manaslu!

2011-10-21T07:01:00.000-07:00

Sophie Denis, 32 years old French - born climber and a NY Section member, summited Manaslu on October 4th as an independent climber with no sherpa, no guide and without oxygen. This was her fourth 8000 meter Himalayan summit this year. Combined with a previous success on Everest, she is well on her way to achieving her goal of climbing all fourteen 8000 meter peaks and being one of the few women to do so.
In August she became the first woman to summit three 8000m peaks in 3 months in 3 different countries (Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Broad Peak) and made it to the shoulder on K-2, tuning back due to bad weather. K-2 remains unclimbed since 2008 the South Side.

We will welcome her back at the 32nd New York Section Black Tie Dinner on Saturday, November 12 and hope to see you there.
Read more on Sophie's endeavors: http://followtheclimb.blogspot.com

Our special guest this year is John Harlin in a special Swiss-themed Dinner focusing on the Eiger and his complete circumnavigation of Switzerland by its mountainous borders. A special report by Sherman Bull on his "Soldiers to the Summit" Himalayan expedition will complete the program.
Also attending are AAC former and present Presidents, Mark Richey and Steve Swenson, who just climbed Saser Kangri, the second highest unclimbed peak in the world.

Photos From Olaf's Outing

2011-10-03T12:44:00.000-07:00

Allamuchy Mountain State Park Top-Rope Social and Oktoberfest Celebration • October 22

2011-09-30T19:21:00.000-07:00

Check out the superb stone of New Jersey's Allamuchy Mountain State Park and meet other climbers from the region. AAC member Barry Rusnock is graciously hosting this event. We’ll have top-ropes setup on climbs from 5.5 to 5.11 on the Main Wall—all abilities are welcome. After climbing join us for an Oktoberfest dinner, complete with Sauerbraten, Wienerschnitzel, Bratwurst, Red cabbage, Spaetzli. Free for AAC members.

Sunday, October 22, 12:00–6:00 p.m. at Allamuchy State Park
6:00–9:00 p.m. at Riverview Outdoor Adventures
See complete event details and directions at this link.

Sandy Hill Book Signing October 18

2011-09-30T19:19:00.001-07:00

PLEASE NOTE THE CHANGE OF VENUE

Please join us for a reception and book-signing event to mark the release of MOUNTAIN, by Sandy Hill. Author Sandy Hill and contributors Jack Tackle and Phil Powers will be present to personally sign Limited Edition copies of the book.

Change of Venue to: Top of the Standard - 848 Washington Street (Above High Line)

Tuesday, October 18, 7:00–9:00 p.m.

Adirondacks Community Pot-Luck, Oct. 9, Lake Placid, NY

2011-09-29T13:40:00.000-07:00

Do you love the Adirondacks? Show your support for the Adirondacks climbing community by joining us for a pot-luck dinner at the beautiful Guide House in Lake Placid, NY. Longtime AAC member and supporter Brian Delaney of High Peaks Cyclery and Mountain Adventure Center is generously hosting this event and looks forward to seeing you in Lake Placid.

What: Community Pot-Luck

When: Sunday, October 9, 6:00-9:00 p.m.

Where: The Guide House

High Peaks Cyclery and Mountain Adventure Center

2733 Main Street

Lake Placid NY 12946

TRIP REPORT : PERU 2011

2011-09-26T05:55:00.000-07:00

Three AAC members, Janet Morgan, Matt Powell and Gregory Frux travelled to Peru’s Cordillera Blanca for a trekking, climbing and painting trip in August 2011. The program was ably supported by the team from Ted Alexander’s Huaraz-based company, Skyline Adventures.
Frux and Morgan arrived early, acclimatizing in Huaraz (elev. 10,000 ft) and at the Lazy Dog Inn (elev. 12,000 ft.). They were delighted to witness the harvesting of quinoa, as well as the traditional methods of threshing wheat by having horses trample the grain. While at the inn, Frux and Morgan painted various views of the Cordillera, including views up the Llaca Valley.

After Mr. Powell arrived the trio undertook a trek up the Cojup Valley. Enroute they witnessed teams of porters carrying in 100 pound pipe sections, up valley for 9 miles. The project the porters are working on is an attempt to lower the level of a rising glacial lake at the top of the valley. Increasing water level and instability of the glacier above are due to dramatic warming of the region. The program is an attempt to make the valley and area downstream less vulnerable to cataclysmic flooding.

After reaching the head of the valley, Powell and Frux continued climbing for two days and crossed over a pass, which included glacier travel, to reach the Ishinca Valley. The high point of the route was 17,200 ft., and involved bypassing a small cornice on the descent. The next day Matt Powell climbed Nevado Ishinca (18,143 ft) with guide Alejo Lazzati. The main technical difficulties were at the summit block, where the team had to cross a bergshrund and climb a short vertical pitch. Greg, who was feeling the altitude stayed at Ishinca high camp. While at this camp he painted an oil painting of massive face of Ranrapalca (20,211 ft).

The team descended to the main Ishinca camp and met up with Janet Morgan who had descended the Cojup Valley and hiked up the Ishinca Valley. The team stayed at this dramatic location several days, with Frux and Morgan doing additional paintings of the surrounding peaks, waterfalls and indigenous forest.

Matt Powell descended first and travelled to the Llanganuco Valley. He made an attempt on Nevado Chopicalqui, reaching high camp at 18,200’ after two days. He reported that the upper mountain conditions have changed dramatically in the last three years, with a great increase in crevasses en route to high camp.

Janet and Greg returned to Huaraz. The following day Greg Frux drove into the Llaca Valley and began his climb from a very high trailhead at 14,500 ft. In the meantime, Janet painted at the dam above Lago Llaca. From the trailhead Greg climbed to high camp at the glacier’s edge at 16,120 ft. in about three hours. At 2:30am, Frux and guide “Nacho” Espinosa set out for the summit of Vallunaraju (18,655 ft.). The mild route was spiced by a field of nevado penitentes and one steep pitch to reach the summit block. In a perfectly choreographed ascent the summit was reached as the sun touched the peak. Climbers were back in Huaraz at mid day and the team safely returned to the USA after a very happy adventure.

Save the Date : 2011 Annual Dinner

2011-09-14T17:55:00.000-07:00

32nd Annual Dinner: American Alpine Club, New York Section—Save the Date

SAVE THE DATE: SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 12, 2011

Union Club, New York City
Special Guest: John Harlin
Invitations to this black tie gala will be in the mail and on line in late September

“In My Father’s Footsteps—Swiss Border Adventures”

Raised in Switzerland, John, then only 6 years old, lost his father, one of the best American climbers of the '60s, in an accident on the notorious North Face of the Eiger. John returned, a few years ago, to repeat and complete his father’s attempt in an IMAX Feature Film. Always enamored by Switzerland, the birthplace of Alpinism, John conceived, planned, and has just completed another audacious Swiss adventure: to climb, paddle and cycle the entire 2000 km. of Switzerland’s border with Germany, Austria, Italy and France. The hardest part of this 2- year project, interrupted by a serious climbing accident last year, entailed 220,000 meters of vertical climbing including planned ascents and descents of several 4000 meter peaks. These include the Monte Rosa, Lyskamm, Matterhorn, etc. John’s trek, aided by precise GPS coordinates, daily videos and on line reports on www.swissinfo.ch/harlin, was followed by over 50,000 Facebook subscribers.

On the night of Saturday, November 12, John will premier this adventure of a lifetime at the Alpine Club Dinner. John is an author, writer and lecturer and is the current editor of the American Alpine Journal.

In addition, a special report “Soldiers to the Summit” will be given by Sherman Bull, who, with a team of fellow Everest climbers, guided several injured vets to the 20,075 ft. summit of Lobuche East last year in an Erik Weihenmayer-led expedition

Invitations to this black tie gala will be in the mail and on line in late September
So...

SAVE THE DATE

Olaf's Outing

2011-09-14T17:53:00.000-07:00

By popular demand—and thanks to the generosity of long time AAC members Olaf and Gitta Soot—we will do a repeat of a long time favorite!

Please reach out to Phil Erard if you're planning on coming for a reservation form and liability waiver if you're climbing.

When: Sunday, September 25 from 3 - 8 p.m.
Where: The Soot Estate
9 Tomahawk Lane
Greenwich, CT 06830

Tomahawk is off Rustic View, which is off Stanwich. Please refer to Google Maps or Mapquest for specifics.
By Train: MetroNorth to Greenwich, then take a cab. Look for other AAC types and share.

Who's Invited?: AAC Members & Guests
Dress: Very Casual
What's Happening?:
All Sorts of Sports:
• Tree Diving & Swimming in the huge circular pool (please bring bathing suit and towel—watch a short video from the titular Olaf Soot of the tree diving on YouTube).
• Rock Climbing on the premises. Routes range from 5.3 to 5.11 with top ropes (please bring harness & shoes).
• Volleyball in the back yard.
• Socializing and schmoozing! Hey New Members, here's a great chance for you to meet the rest of the crew and for Old Timers, a chance to renew acquaintances and tell tall tales...
• Food & Drink. We know, climbers are always hungry and thirsty. Volunteer bartenders appreciated. Buffet dinner.
• Slide Show. Please bring ten interesting slides of your summer adventures on a USB stick or disk. Also, Olaf will have a short show of his own at dark (For Mature Audiences, he says).

An Important Question: How Much?: In advance: $25/adult, $10/kid. After 9/22 or at the door: $35/adult, $10/kid. Again, please reach out to Phil Erard if you're planning on attending for the reservation form and release form.

Calling All AAC Members - Urgent Help Needed in Catskills Post Hurricane!

2011-08-31T09:51:00.000-07:00

Dear Members:

24,000 people in Ulster County are still with out electricity. Two prime ice and summer climbing towns, Phoenicia and Tannersville have basically been destroyed. They need immediate help. To volunteer contact: (518) 458-8111 to register or email zimmerman@redcrossneny.org for 4 hour fast-track disaster relief training sessions. More information is also available on the Facebook page.

Click here to view a quick video of the destruction.

Also, donations can be sent to the following locations:

Shelter Donations: Family of New Paltz 51 N. Chestnut St New Paltz, 845-255-8801 accepts clothing donations. School clothes needed, in addition to clothes for hurricane victims.
FAMILY of Woodstock, Inc. 39 John Street Kingston (845) 331-7080
Contact the Red Cross directly to ask about clothing donations. Dutchess County Chapter: (845) 471-0200
North Country Chapter: (518) 561-7280
Northeastern NY Chapter: (518) 458-8111
Ulster County Chapter: (845) 338-7020

New AAC Facebook Page!

2011-08-20T05:48:00.000-07:00

Please update your Facebook memberships and links to the new AAC Facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/pages/American-Alpine-Club-Northeast-Region/219526988098336

Why the change? The new page covers the entire Northeast and is being maintained by the American Alpine Club. This way, we can keep all the members of the New York Section posted with the latest events and happenings throughout the Northeast.

Please Join Robert Walljasper for the Annual Picnic Sunday, September 11, 2011

2011-08-10T19:05:00.000-07:00

Robert Walljasper, a NY Section Member and Professional Chef, cordially invites fellow alpinists and gourmets to his annual picnic in New Paltz at the Culinarian's Home Foundation.

This is quite an amazing and jolly event: 500 people or more at a seated and served Lunch a la Francaise under a big tent. All for an exceptionally low price: $45 per person including wine. For another $25 there is round trip bus transporation from New York. Close your eyes and you'd swear you were in Provence. Casual Attire.

We will be forming an AAC table so if you do decide to go, please let philiperard@nysalpineclub.org know.

So, why not climb on Saturday and/or Sunday morning and then join the festivities?

The event is being held at 71 Old Tschirky Road in New Paltz. Directions are on the bus form. Lunch is served at 1:30 PM, but coffee and danish are available for early arrivers.

Please e-mail Phil Erard if you are interested in going and having a sign-up form e-mailed to you.

Please note that no reservations will be accepted after August 29. No Exceptions.

K2 Summit Push Aborted

2011-08-06T15:42:00.001-07:00

After reaching Camp IV and waiting for high winds to calm, Sophie and the rest of the K-2 team aborted their attempt and are descending to Base Camp after cleaing the route. A valiant try, but with no prospect of the winds diminishing, K-2 will remain unclimbed this year. No one has reached the summit since 2008 when 11 climbers died.

More news when the climbers reach Base Camp.

For more details, visit the Field Touring Alpine Blog: www.fieldtouring.blogspot.com

Sophie and the K-2 Summit Push is Beginning Now!

2011-08-04T07:29:00.000-07:00

Sophie is part of a 15 person group,now at Camp 3, hoping to summit on Friday winds permitting.
No person has stood on the summit of K-2 since 2008 when 11 persons died.

http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/2011/08/karakoram-2011-summit-push-on-k2-begins.html

Sophie on K2 - Hoping for a Summit Bid on August 5th!

2011-08-03T05:33:00.001-07:00

After summitting Broad Peak last week, her third 8000 meter peak this year, NY Section Member Sophie Denis is now on K-2's Cesen Route, hoping for a weather window this Friday that will take her to the top. You may follow her daily progress on:

www.fieldtouring.blogspot.com

Sophie Denis Summits Broad Peak!

2011-07-25T11:17:00.000-07:00

Sophie at the AAC NYS Annual Dinner with Bo Parfet and Dick Bass.

Click here to listen to the radio broadcast of the announcement.

Sophie Denis, 30-year old French Born NY Section Member, summitted Broad Peak this weekend with a Field Touring Alpine Group.
This is after a delay of almost a week because of high winds and avalanche conditions. This is the third 8000 meter peak she has climbed this year, the others being Cho Oyu and Lhotse in Pre-Monsoon, all done speedily and in good form. She climbed Everest a couple of years ago.

Next on her agenda is K-2 which she expects to tackle in August.

Her goal is to do an unprecedented six 8000 meter peaks in a single calendar year.

Felicitations Sophie!

You may follow her progress on the link to her blog in the right hand corner of this website or on www.fieldtouring.blogspot.com.

AAC Expands Community Programs Team

2011-07-16T18:50:00.000-07:00

Today marks an important milestone in the AAC’s implementation of their Strategic Five-year Plan [read more about the plan here: http://www.americanalpineclub.org/p/5-year-plan ]. The Club is pleased to welcome John Bragg as the new Community Programs Director and Sarah Garlick as the new Northeast Regional Coordinator. Later this summer, the pair join Pacific Northwest Regional Coordinator Eddie Espinosa.

As part of the AAC’s Strategic Plan, The Club will deliver ever more AAC programs at the local level. Specifically, through more social gatherings, advocacy for local crags, initiatives such as mentorship and skills education, and conservation work—identified by local climbing communities and supported by AAC grant funding [like the new Cornerstone grant, more info here: http://www.americanalpineclub.org/grants/g/16/Cornerstone-Grant

John Bragg will be directing these efforts from the national office in Golden, CO and Sarah Garlick will coordinate events and programs at a regional level in New England and the Eastern Seaboard.

John Bragg was one of the pioneers of the free climbing revolution in the U.S. during the 1970s, establishing classics in the Shawangunks and Eldorado Canyon. John was also one of the leaders of the ‘70s ice climbing revolution in New Hampshire—establishing such modern test-pieces as the Black Dike and Repentance. Bragg then took these new rock and ice techniques and standards to the Fitzroy area of Patagonia, where during 1976 and 1977, he was on the first ascent team for Torre Egger and the first alpine-style ascent of Cerro Torre. He has since taken this experience even further afield with expeditions around the world, many in the Karakoram. After graduating from Harvard, among other things, Bragg was the president of the Franconia Group, representing Marmot, Scarpa, and many other major brands. He was also an Exum guide and served numerous non-profits, including North Conway Mountain Rescue, Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition, and the Gunks Climbers’ Coalition. John and his wife of over 30 years are excited to be moving to Colorado next month.

Sarah Garlick is a climber based out of North Conway, New Hampshire. Originally from North Carolina, Sarah learned to climb in New England as a college student, getting her start bouldering in Lincoln Woods, RI in the late Nineties. She’s since explored mountains and crags around the world, from the walls of Yosemite to the alpine peaks of Patagonia. Last year, Sarah led an expedition to Greenland, where she and her teammates established a new free route up a remote granite wall. Trained as a geologist and writer, Sarah’s book, Flakes, Jugs & Splitters: A Rock Climber’s Guide to Geology, won the 2009 Banff Mountain Book Award. Sarah has been deeply involved in the Northeast climbing community for many years. She served as the Chairman of the Board of Directors of the Kismet Rock Foundation, and she’s been the director of the Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival and International Mountain Climbing School’s Women’s Rock Weekend. Sarah lives in North Conway with her husband, climber and filmmaker Jim Surette.

Sarah wrote to the Club upon her acceptance: “One of the things I love most about climbing is its community. We’re a tight-knit bunch, especially in the Northeast. I’m thrilled to be able to dedicate my time to strengthening and growing that sense of community, and supporting my fellow climbers. For me, that’s what the American Alpine Club is all about.”

Tuesday July 12, 2011 - Tribeca Cinemas - Skiing Everest

2011-06-24T12:36:00.000-07:00

Mike Marolt and Montezuma Basin Productions partners with a cast of sponsors and volunteers
to host a private film screening event to benefit the JIMMIE HEUGA CENTER ENDOWMENT.

TEN YEARS IN THE MAKING, “SKIING EVEREST” EXPERTLY EDGES TO EARTH
IN A SPECIAL SCREENING EVENT

For more info and tickets, please visit their website.

Rubin Museum of Art : Peak Experience VI

2011-06-23T08:18:00.000-07:00

Climbing at the Rubin. Note Mallory at the bottom of the Hillary Step.

If you are the parent or guardian of an adventurous 9-year-old, and you would relish a night off in the middle of July, read on.

On July 23 your child could be the youngest person to reach the peak of the highest mountain in the world. Without leaving Manhattan.

Guided by some of the world’s top mountaineers and experienced Sherpas, 40 kids ages 9-12 will have the chance to experience a fully simulated ascent of Mount Everest right here from the foothills of Chelsea, replete with avalanches, icefalls, daring rescues, precarious ladder crossings, and the ever-present possibility of a yeti sighting. It’s an overnight. Kids only. No parents! More information and tickets here.

RUBIN MUSEUM OF ART
presents

Peak Experience
Climb Mount Everest without leaving Manhattan!

Saturday, July 23–
7:00 p.m.
Sunday, July 24
8:00 a.m.
$175 per child/
$157.50 for members

Tickets and registration available online at www.rmanyc.org/sleepovers or by calling the Box Office: 212-620-5000 x344

“We said goodbye to our families, strapped on harnesses, and used carabiners and ropes to climb the spiral staircase, which had been transformed into Mt. Everest” – Rose Goodman, age 9, and Lila Colet, age 10, Time Out New York Kids

July 23-24, 2011, will mark the Rubin Museum of Art's sixth Peak Experience. During this sleepover adventure forty children, ages nine to twelve, simulate an ascent of the tallest mountain in the world.
Sherpas, museum guides, and some of the world’s most experienced Mount Everest climbers will lead these young climbers through the basic camping, safety, teamwork, and leadership skills necessary for high altitude climbing. Led by Robert Anderson (see below), a veteran of nine Everest expeditions, they will explore Himalayan art, Sherpa culture and food, and mountaineering etiquette. In order to reach the summit, participants must overcome the challenges climbers face, such as tying knots with mittens on, negotiating the notorious Hillary Step, and rescuing a frozen climber. Anderson will rappel straight down the center of the museum’s spiral staircase, hooked into a rope suspended from the museum’s 90-foot high atrium. At nightfall the climbers will descend to base camp to enjoy a hearty tsampa dinner, exchange stories of the mysterious yeti that roam the slopes of Everest, and fall asleep under the mighty mountain’s peak in order to prepare for the assault of the top before dawn...

Registration is complete only when the waiver and information sheet along with payment have been received by RMA.

This program is presented in association with the American Alpine Club (New York Chapter)
RUBIN MUSEUM OF ART
150 WEST 17TH STREET, NEW YORK CITY
www.rmanyc.org/sleepovers Ÿ 212.620.5000 x344

Invitation: 2011 AAC Climbers Meet Yosemite: Sept 26-Oct 1, 2011

2011-06-14T17:26:00.000-07:00

Come Join the Fun: 4th International AAC Climbers Meet in Yosemite. All levels of experience welcome. Transportation from Fresno, catered meals and campground fees included in the $435 price for the whole week.

Details for this high season event and an application form are attached.

Let's have a strong New York showing!

More details available on the NY Section website at www.nysalpineclub.org

Two Up and Coming Alpinists

2011-06-14T08:45:00.000-07:00

Ayla (1 Year Old) on the Beer Walls

Juliet Giving Ayla a Belay Lesson

More Photos from the Summer Outing!

2011-06-13T18:56:00.000-07:00

Andrea on Pegasus

The Historic Ausable Club

Howard and Shayna

Michael on Pegasus

New Members Adrian and Kat

More Photos from the AAC Ausable Summer Outing

2011-06-09T20:09:00.000-07:00

Noonmark Mountain

Pitchoff Mountain

First Group of Photos In from the Ausable Retreat

2011-06-08T21:41:00.000-07:00

6-4-11 Slide Report
On Saturday, June 4th, Tony & Martha Stauffer, Wayne Wilson, and I climbed Bottle Slide on Giant Mountain. Though my plan was to take advantage of prime conditions to climb Eagle Slide, the directions to the herd path weren’t complete and we ended up to the left of Eagle. I’d done Eagle some 15 years ago by boulder-hopping up Roaring Brook to its base. The route suggested this time took us instead up Roaring Brook trail for an hour to the right side of the brook, with a left turn at a cairn. But after 200 yards or so, what seemed to be the herd path turned uphill sharply and had us bashing and clawing our way up a spruce/alder tangle till we finally spotted open air on our left. Getting into the open put us onto Bottle Slide rather than Eagle, so we made that our day’s adventure.

Though the biggest difficulty was route finding in that tangle, we next encountered steep scree fields with 100-lb boulders moving when stepped upon. Past that was sharp, nubbly conglomorate slabs approaching 40-degree pitch for between 600 and 1,000 ft and ending in a smooth vertical granite wall. The last effort required route finding in dense thickets clinging to the base of the cliff, locating a break in the face, and scrambling up a few pitches until coming out on the ridge trail. Overall a good workout and adventure.

--Submitted by John Tiernan

AAC NYS Member Jim Clash Details Training for Cho Oyu Climb

2011-06-03T03:32:00.000-07:00

Thinking of climbing Cho Oyu? NY Section Member and journalist, Jim Clash, is hard at work training and planning. Here's his story:

Clif Maloney, a seasoned amateur climber married to New York Congresswoman Carolyn Maloney, reached the top of Tibet’s 26,906-foot Cho Oyu in 2009. It had long been a dream, and because the 71-year-old investment banker had tried before and failed, the moment was especially sweet.

“I’m the happiest man in the world,” he said to his guide.

On his way down, though, an exhausted Maloney stopped at high camp (23,000 feet) and died.

That’s the world of elite peaks: one minute jubilation, the next shock and sadness.

I understand Maloney’s love of heights, and the rollercoaster of risk involved in attaining them. I’ve wanted to climb in the Himalayas, the highest peaks on earth, all my life.

Cho Oyu is a logical choice. Amateurs like it not just for its stunning beauty, but because it’s one of only 14 peaks in the world above 8,000 meters (26,250 feet). And, while it is the sixth-highest overall, it’s considered easier than some of its lower siblings like Annapurna (26,547 feet), because of relative accessibility and forgiving terrain.

But you don’t just go out and climb something like Cho Oyu without training -- and experience.

There are two types of mountain climbing: rock climbing and mountaineering. The first, spidering up vertical walls with ropes, harnesses and rock shoes, is what one does on Yosemite’s Half Dome. Falling is the obvious risk. Mountaineering, what Cho Oyu is about, involves snow and cold-weather camping, often at extreme altitude. Weather, avalanche and mountain sickness are often more the danger than falling.

Getting Into Shape
For any mountaineering effort, the first step is getting into shape -- and not just to reach the top. Most problems occur on the descent, when climbers are tired and clumsy.

To build leg strength for Cho Oyu, I’ve become the building eccentric, marching up and down the stairs of my Manhattan apartment complex three times a week with a 50-pound (23- kilogram) pack. During each session, I lose five pounds to perspiration.

To strengthen my cardiovascular system, I run 6 miles at an 8-minute pace in Riverside Park, along the Hudson River. The thinner air at altitude combined with long climbing days -- often more than 10 hours -- means plenty of heavy breathing. I also lift weights to strengthen my upper body for ferrying heavy packs between camps on the mountain.

As for a climbing resume, it takes a while to build it. A good introduction is provided by Rainier Mountaineering Inc., which offers year-round training and a climb of Washington’s heavily glaciated, 14,411-foot Mt. Rainier. My classes covered the basics of snow-climbing: travel in roped teams, use of an ice axe for self-arrest in case of a fall, use of crampons (spikes strapped to boots) for traction on snow, and crevasse rescue.

Altitude Exposure
After Rainier, my next step was some high-altitude exposure. It’s impossible to overstate how difficult it is to do anything -- including think -- above 18,000 feet, where oxygen is less than half what it is at sea level. I went to Mexico and climbed volcanoes, 17,887-foot Popocatepetl and 18,851-foot Orizaba. While they are difficult physically, the summits are doable in one day from high huts, and thus don’t require camping. For that, and even more altitude, Aconcagua was recommended as a final test.

At 22,834 feet (about 7,000 meters), Aconcagua is the highest peak in the world outside of Asia. Its extreme weather, altitude and short acclimatization time probably best simulate conditions on an 8,000-meter peak.

Higher Camps
Like Cho Oyu, it also requires building a series of higher and higher camps to slowly acclimate the body to thinner air. If a climber ascends too quickly, he develops mountain sickness or, worse, the more extreme HAPE (high-altitude pulmonary edema) and HACE (high-altitude cerebral edema). Untreated, both can lead quickly to death.

In the course of two weeks our group built four ever-higher camps on Aconcagua, each time suffering initially from lower oxygen levels at the higher altitude, then gradually becoming acclimated. Finally, from our high camp at 19,300 feet we set out for the top early one morning in below-zero weather.

That day, I found out what altitude was all about. The last section, the Canaleta, is simply the hardest thing I’ve ever done. It is 800 vertical feet of loose scree -- a kind of hell up near heaven. Three steps up, then a slide back, or a fall on my face -- over and over, like trying to climb a down escalator.

There was no concept of time. I just knew I had to put one foot in front of the other and soon I’d be standing on the highest patch of ground outside of Central Asia. My guides later told me it took a full 20 minutes to cover the last 50 feet. At the end, I was taking five gasps per step.

The Bad News
Fun, eh? My date with Cho Oyu is this fall or next spring, depending on my fitness progress and schedule. The bad news: Cho is 4,000 feet higher than Aconcagua. The good: I have an extra three weeks on the mountain to acclimate and will use supplemental oxygen above 24,000 feet.

The plan is to go with Jagged Globe Expeditions, a U.K. outfit that offers a quality program for $17,000. More important, though: Two-time Everest summiteer Robert Anderson will be my guide. He knows me as a friend and a client (we climbed virgin peaks in Greenland a few years back).

If anyone can get me to the top safely, it’s Anderson. And back down again, I hope.

Everest Day Event with H.E. Ambassador Gyan Chandra Acharya - May 29, 2011

2011-05-21T13:41:00.000-07:00

On the occasion of the commemoration of "Everest Day," The Permanent Representative of Nepal to the United Nations H.E. Ambassador Gyan Chandra Acharya requests the pleasure of your company at a Cultural Event and Reception from 6.30 – 8.30 p.m. on Sunday, May 29, 2011 at Sagarmatha Restaurant, 62 – 02, Roosevelt Avenue, Woodside, NY 11377, (7 Train – station 61 Street) (Many Everest climbers from Nepal and USA will be present at the event.)

RSVP: 212 370 3988/89 (Ms. Sangya Singh)
Email: nepalmissionusa@gmail.com

American Alpine Club Executive Director Injured in Climbing Accident

2011-05-21T13:38:00.000-07:00

On the afternoon of Tuesday, May 17, American Alpine Club (AAC) Executive Director Phil Powers was injured in a climbing accident. He is presently in stable condition in the intensive care ward at St. Anthony’s Hospital in Denver, CO.

When the accident occurred, Powers was climbing with a group near AAC headquarters in Clear Creek Canyon’s Highwire area outside of Golden, CO. Clear Creek Canyon is a popular and accessible sport climbing crag on public land.

The area where the group was climbing is directly above the highway and river. The rock formation at the site of the accident is overhanging making direct sight contact difficult. Due to communication difficulties, there was confusion amongst the party over Powers’ method of descent which resulted in Powers falling approximately 50 feet to the ground.

Powers landed on dirt mainly on the left side of his seat and torso and suffered a brief loss of consciousness. His companions immediately assessed him and began implementation of wilderness first aid and rescue preparation. Golden, CO Fire Department responded quickly and began a complicated evacuation procedure.

After being stabilized at the accident site, Powers was lowered on a litter by the Golden Fire Department to the riverbed, hauled up to a waiting ambulance, then driven one mile down the canyon where he was transferred to a Flight for Life helicopter. He was flown to St. Anthony’s Hospital in Denver where he immediately underwent a successful surgery to repair a punctured diaphragm and address a collapsed lung. Powers sustained multiple injuries to his torso region in the fall: including a broken arm, fractured ribs and vertebras, a punctured diaphragm, a collapsed lung, and substantial internal bruising. Powers was not wearing a helmet, but it does not appear that he suffered any head injury.

The American Alpine Club is focused on Phil, his family, and his recovery and is asking that well-wishers and concerned parties send their words of support to the AAC either via email at getwellphill@americanalpineclub.org or via mail to American Alpine Club 710 10th St, Golden, CO 80305. The AAC will make sure that they get to the family.

No other information is currently available. As soon as any new information becomes available it will be shared and posted on the AAC’s website at http://www.americanalpineclub.org/p/status. Please do not contact Phil’s family at this time as they are dealing with many details important to his recovery.

About Phil Powers:
Phil Powers joined the American Alpine Club as executive director in May of 2005. His previous experience in the non-profit world includes service as Vice President for Institutional Advancement at Naropa University and seventeen years with the National Outdoor Leadership School as Chief Mountaineering Instructor and Development/Partnerships Director. He remains an owner of Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. Powers is author of Wilderness Mountaineering and Climbing: Expedition Planning. His essay, "The Importance of Pace", was aired on NPR's "This I Believe" in 2006. Powers has led dozens of expeditions to South America, Alaska and Pakistan's Karakoram Range, including ascents of K2 and Gasherbrum II without supplemental oxygen. He made the first ascent of the Washburn Face on Denali, naming it in recognition of the impact longtime AAC member Bradford Washburn's photos had in the planning and route research of many Alaska climbs. Powers also made the first ascent of Lukpilla Brakk's Western Edge in Pakistan, and the first winter traverse of the Tetons' Cathedral Peaks. He is an active climber and skier and lives with his wife and children in Denver, Colorado.

Updates on Two AAC NYS Climbers

2011-05-15T18:49:00.000-07:00

Sophie Denis, the French girl and investment banker who many of you met at the Annual Dinner in November, is attempting to do Five Eight Thousand Meter Peaks this year. Only a few days after climbing Cho Oyu, without oxygen and in great style, Sophie headed to Everest Base Camp, with Lhotse as her objective. (She climbed Everest a couple of years ago) Here is the link to her website:

http://followtheclimb.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2011-01-01T00%3A00%3A00-05%3A00&updated-max=2012-01-01T00%3A00%3A00-05%3A00&max-results=50

Meanwhile, Holly Mauro, another refugee from the banking world who quit a great job to go climbing, just reported doing her first on-sight 5:11 trad lead in the Red Rocks. Her motto (from George Eliot) is: "You're never too late to become the person you always wanted to become."

You can follow her exploits ("Camp Four Diaries") as well as Sophie's on the NY Section blog: www.nysaac.blogspot.com. Check it from time to time for news of forthcoming events.

Congratulations and good luck to both of our ladies as they fulfill their dreams.

Annual Ausable Club Outing Registration Available

2011-05-01T17:42:00.000-07:00

Ausable Club Outing
June 3-5th, 2011
Keene Valley - Adirondacks, NY

The New York Section has been guests at the Ausable Club in Keene Valley since time immemorial. This year's outing will be held the first weekend in June. Hope to see you there, but do return your forms as soon as possible as this event invariably sells out.

All forms are available at www.nysalpineclub.org/events.htm

Peak Experience VI at the Rubin Museum of Art

2011-04-28T15:22:00.001-07:00

PLEASE NOTE THE DATE CHANGE
Saturday July 23, 2011 @ 7:00 PM
Price: $175.00
Member Price: $157.50

www.rmanyc.org/events/load/1083

Discount are available for member parents of the AAC.

July 23-24th, 2011, will mark the Rubin Museum of Art's fifth Peak Experience. During this sleepover adventure forty children, ages nine to twelve, will work together to confront the physical challenges, consider the perils, experience the culture, and practice the team dynamics of climbing Mt. Everest (in the form of the museum's signature six-level spiral staircase covered with "snow," "ice," and "rocks" that threaten to avalanche).

Sherpas, museum guides, and some of the world's most experienced Mount Everest climbers will lead these young climbers through the basic camping, safety, teamwork, and leadership skills necessary for high altitude climbing. Led by Robert Anderson, a veteran of eight Everest expeditions, they will explore Himalayan art, Sherpa culture and food, and mountaineering etiquette. In order to reach the summit, participants must overcome the challenges climbers face, such as tying knots with mittens on and operating two-way radios. At nightfall the climbers will descend to base camp to enjoy a hearty tsampa dinner, exchange stories of the mysterious yeti that roams the slopes of Everest, and fall asleep under the mighty mountain's peak. Anderson will rappel straight down the center of the museum's spiral staircase hooked into a rope suspended from a ninety-foot-high atrium.

Tickets: $175 per child (registration is limited to forty children). Please call 212.620.5000 x344 for more information.

A Tribute to Jim Goodwin

2011-04-17T19:10:00.000-07:00

Jim Goodwin, Age 9, on top of Hopkins Mountain (1919).

Jim Goodwin’s broad lifetime achievements and involvements have been chronicled sufficiently. He broke many records and achieved many “firsts” but that is not all what Jim was about. He was a gentle and a humble man, civilized and yet modern in a way, and still Jim represented a world that does no longer exist in today’s age.

Those who study Adirondack history and lore will find many Mr. Adirondacks. Jim Goodwin was perhaps the last Mr. Adirondack our generation had the opportunity to know personally. That is a distinction and honor to Jim, and does not diminish the many other outstanding servants that still contribute in our days to the well-being of the Adirondack Wilderness.

In his private autobiography Jim reduces to 127 pages his life story sharing many unique photos with us of historical value: „And Gladly Guide“‚ ‘A Life in the Mountains’ is his summary of his life. Early on he notes “My identity appears to be that of a nineteenth century Adirondack guide, and by improvising on this theme, I have managed to keep practicing my art through most of the twentieth century.” He certainly was different than some of the hermits of older times that roamed the Adirondacks or the earlier explorers whose work made possible the establishment and management of the Park.

Having had privileged access to the area since early childhood he learned to appreciate the values that the Adirondacks represent and the responsibilities that needed to be developed and cherished. His vision for organized access, for the good of the Wilderness, can be exploited by today’s many visitors.

Late in life when he drafted his notes he realized: “Looking back from the objectivity of the 1990s, one side of me regrets that I ever helped bring more people to out of the way places in the mountains by constructing trails and describing routes to trailless peaks in the guide books. … But my other side argues that our good Lord created the world to be used by mankind and that we must be willing to share the good things of life, even though they get tarnished a bit in the process. Effective leadership in educating people to use the out of doors wisely and appreciatively can limit the amount of tarnish, and I am encouraged to see how successful, so far, education has been.”

Jim, it was my privilege to be able to share with you many hours in trail maintenance and summit reseeding efforts – work earmarked to guaranty future enjoyment of the Adirondacks. Those who now travel to the “Garden” parking lot to park their cars and begin their hike should bow their head and tip their hat when they pass by your cottage on the access road. It houses so many memories of what the Adirondacks are all about.

Friedel Schunk
member NYSAAC

Book Party from Art & Adventures on April 29, 2011

2011-04-14T04:30:00.000-07:00

The promise of viewing a total solar eclipse in 1994 inspired a group of artists to travel far beyond the end of the road into Bolivia’s Atacama Desert. This book features paintings of barren volcanic landscapes two miles above sea level, with a story recounts that the magic the mind can create amid salt lakes, peaks, geysers and remote outposts that reside far outside most of our experiences.

Book Party:

Friday April 29, 7 p.m.
11 Sterling Place, #3A, Brooklyn N.Y.

Signed numbered copies of the book will be available for $20 at the event

You can also purchase Three Artists in the Andes online here.

Jim Goodwin Obituary Notice

2011-04-12T15:28:00.001-07:00

With deep regret, the American Alpine Club and the New York Section, wish to announce that our oldest member, James (Jim) Goodwin of Keene Valley, passed away on April 7 at the age of 101. A memorial service will be held at the Keene Valley Congregational Church on Saturday April 23 at 3PM with a reception to follow. Jim was an Adirondack legend and was personally responsible for many first ascents there and for cutting many of the trails we have all enjoyed in the High Peaks Region. He was also a WW II veteran of the 10th Mountain Division. Our deepest sympathies go to his son Tony and other family members. His obituary follows:

http://www.adirondackdailyenterprise.com/page/content.detail/id/523918/James-A--Goodwin.html?nav=5009

SAVE THE DATE : Annual Ausable Club Outing June 3-5, 2011

2011-04-11T08:50:00.000-07:00

Annual Ausable Club Outing: June 3-5, 2011

Further Information and Subscription Details will be forthcoming in early May.

Follow Sophie Denis On Her Attempt at Five 8,000 Meter Peaks

2011-04-10T15:22:00.000-07:00

Follow Sophie, a NY Section Member, on her current Himalayan Adventures, as she attempts to climb five 8000 meter peaks this year. These are Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Broad Peak, K-2 and Manaslu. Sophie climbed Everest via the North Side 2 years ago.

Follow the Climb

Help a Fellow Climber - Auction Underway

2011-04-07T18:12:00.000-07:00

As previously posted, fellow Alpine Club and NY Section member Rich Romano, was seriously injured in a fall at the City of Rocks last August. The AAC is participating in a climbing community effort to help Rich defray the huge costs of his heli rescue, hospitalization and subsequent rehabilitation, only partially reimbursed by his medical insurance.

As part of the effort, Marty Molitoris, head of the Alpine Endeavors guide service, is auctioning off two guided day climbs for 2 people at Mohonk, one for Millbrook and the other for Skytop. The Skytop auction also includes a mandatory meal at Mohonk Mountain House. Only approved guide services and their clients may, as you know, climb at Skytop.

The auction began last Tuesday and will end promptly on April 15 at 10PM. Winners of the auction may use the service any time until November.

In addition and separate from Marty's auction, the Mohonk Preserve is auctioning off 2 annual family passes to the Preserve, all proceeds to go to the Romanofund.

Beginning bids on the guided climbs are suggested at $200 for Millbrook and $400 for Skytop, well below list . The Mohonk Preserve passes are valued at $150 each. These are valid for one year and can be added to an existing membership. Beginning bids on the Preserve passes start at $5,

Details on all the above may be found at http://alpineendeavors.com/romanoauction.html

Auction to Help the Rich Romano Fund

2011-04-05T08:21:00.000-07:00

Marty Molitoris, head of the Alpine Endeavors Guide Service, is contributing his services with an auction of a guided day climb on either Millbrook or Skytop, all proceeds benefiting the Rich Romano Fund.

Here's a great way to help Rich defray the huge cost of his accident and rehabilitation and have an enjoyable day with one of the top Gunks Guides.

Bidding starts on April 5 at 10 PM and will last exactly 10 days.

Click here to find out all the details : http://www.alpineendeavors.com/romanoauction.html

Help a Fellow Climber and NY Section Member

2011-03-24T10:05:00.000-07:00

Rich Romano, one of the most prolific climbers and route setters in the Gunks, suffered a serious accident on August 31, 2010 in the City of Rocks, ID. , His rope, which was too short for the route he was lowering off , ran through the belay device resulting in a serious fall. Full details of the accident are on Myriam Bouchard's blog: http://myrbou.blogspot.com/2011/02/and-then-he-fell.html

Various fund raising efforts are underway to help him defray the enormous and ongoing costs of evacuation, medical treatment and therapy. In this connection there will be a fund raising event at the Cliffs Climbing Gym in Valhalla, NY on April 5 from 7 to 10PM. Details are here.
http://romanofund.com/otherfundraisers.html

You are encouraged to attend and help support these fundraising efforts. More opportunities to contribute and details about Rich's contribution to Gunks climbing, may be found on Rock and Snow's website: www.rockandsnow.com

AAC Fuel Your Inspiration Grant Deadlines Approaching Quickly

2011-03-15T14:33:00.000-07:00

The American Alpine Club grants program provides resources for climbers and explorers to attempt new challenges, establish humanitarian programs, protect alpine environments, conduct scientific research, and push the envelope of human accomplishment in mountain and polar environments. The AAC awards over $50,000 annually, although the size and number of awards vary from year to year.

Many grants and awards have application deadlines in the coming weeks. Both the Copp-Dash Inspire Award and the Lara-Karena Bitenieks Kellogg Memorial Conservation Grant have application deadlines of March 31. The Mountain Fellowship Grant—an award targeted at younger climbers beginning their careers—has an application deadline of April 1. The Zach Martin Breaking Barriers Grant—a dual-purpose humanitarian and climbing grant—has an application deadline of April 15. Details on these programs can be found on the AAC website: americanalpineclub.org/grants

Lara Karena Kellogg died during an attempt on the North Buttress of Mount Wake in the Alaska Range in April 2007. The conservation grant established in her name is intended to carry on the essence of her spirit and her character, by supporting expeditions with goals of improving the health and sustainability of mountain environments and habitats. The application deadline is March 31.

The Copp-Dash Inspire Award supports small teams tackling difficult climbs in the great mountains of the world who also plan to document and share their ascents through multimedia. The application deadline is March 31. This grant is sponsored by Black Diamond Equipment, La Sportiva, Mountain Hardwear and Patagonia, and with in-kind support from The American Alpine Club, Adventure Film Festival, Alpinist Magazine, Sender Films, and the Jonny Copp Foundation.

The Club’s “gateway grant,” the AAC Mountain Fellowship Grant, is targeted at climbers under 25. “The Mountain Fellowship allowed to me fulfill my dream of traveling to Patagonia,” said 2008 recipient Aaron Jones. “I figured, ‘Why not apply?’ And just a few months later I was sitting below the Central Tower of Paine!” The spring application deadline for the AAC Mountain Fellowship Grant is April 1.

Zack Martin died just before his 25th birthday on Thanksgiving Day, 2002. He was a recipient of AAC grants, the Anatoli Boukreev Grant and others. Concerned about the general arrogance and self-serving aspirations of climbers and explorers, he committed himself, first and foremost, to performing humanitarian service in local communities, as well as climbing and exploration. The application for the grant founded in both the name and spirit of Zach Martin is April 15.

Fuel your inspiration—apply for an AAC grant this year.
A full list of AAC-administered grants is below, and more information is available on the AAC Grants page: americanalpineclub.org/grants
• Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award: $12,000 for elite endeavors by small, highly qualified teams. Deadline: January 1.
• McNeill-Nott Grant: $5,000 in memory of Karen McNeill and Sue Nott for non-pro/non-sponsored climbers for new routes and unclimbed peaks. Deadline: January 1.
• Research Grants: $9,000 for expeditions that have an academic research component. Deadline: March 1.
• Scott Fischer Memorial Conservation Grant: In memory of Scott Fischer, this grant helps fund environmentally proactive expeditions around the world. Deadline: March 1.
• Nikwax Alpine Bellwether Grant: $3,000 for expeditions that focus on photography and observation of climate change impacts. Deadline: March 1.
• Copp-Dash Inspire Award: $20,000, in memory of Jonny Copp and Micah Dash, supports small teams tackling difficult climbs in the greater ranges who will document and share their experiences through multimedia. Deadline: March 31.
• Lara-Karena Bitenieks Kellogg Memorial Conservation Grant: This grant is intended for expeditions, with measurable goals, to support and improve the health and sustainability of mountain environments and habitats. Deadline: March 31.
• Mountain Fellowship: $9,000 for non-pro applicants under the age of 25 for major endeavors. Two deadlines: April 1 and November 1.
• Zack Martin Breaking Barriers Grant: Under $2,000 in memory of Zack Martin, for trips with a humanitarian element. Deadline: April 15.
Become a member of the AAC today to support these grants and awards that send dozens of climbers to Earth’s far reaches every year.
About The American Alpine Club

The American Alpine Club provides knowledge and inspiration, conservation and advocacy, and logistical support for the climbing community. The Club awards more than $50,000 every year in the form of climbing, conservation, and research grants to budding adventurers. The AAC also manages a climbers’ campground in Grand Teton National Park, publishes the most sought after annual climbing publications, the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering, and cares for the world’s leading climbing library. Learn about additional programs and become a member at americanalpineclub.org. Join the AAC’s online community at facebook.com/americanalpineclub.

Peak Experience VI at the Rubin Museum of Art

2011-03-08T08:41:00.000-08:00

PLEASE NOTE THE DATE CHANGE
Saturday July 23, 2011 @ 7:00 PM
Price: $175.00
Member Price: $157.50

AAC Spring Outing in the Catskills - February 2011

2011-03-04T07:25:00.000-08:00

This year, for the first time, the American Alpine Club New York Section spent a spectacular weekend in the Catskills. Although it was a skeletal crew - Vic Benes, Ron Bixby, Todd Fairbairn, Holly Mauro, Andréa Salerno and Michael Schlenker – the fun factor did not suffer. We arrived on Friday at the Deer Mountain Inn in Tannersville to 5-6” of fresh snow. The climbing conditions were superb. Saturday we climbed Devil's Kitchen - it was MIchael, Ron, Vic, Holly and Andrea. A bunch of Holly's climbing friends showed up so we were able to share ropes, snacks and stories, and a good time was had by all. That evening we had a little happy hour followed by dinner at the Inn.

On Sunday we lost Holly but gained Todd Fairbairn who joined us for the day. We went to Black Chasm, which was sensational! 100 ft walls of ice!

Please hold February 17-19, 2012 for next year’s Catskills Outing. You don't want to miss it. See you there!

Ron Bixby in the Devil's Kitchen

Michael Schlenker

Black Chasm

Holly on Belay

Holly and Michael Prepare to Climb

Mephisto at Black Chasm

Michael Schlenker

Ron Bixby and Vic

The Gang - Vic Benes, Andréa Salerno, Michael Schlenker, Todd Fairbairn

The Incomparable Vic Benes

January 22, 2011 - Crampon Climb of Cascade Mountain

2011-03-04T07:14:00.000-08:00

The Crest of the Americas : By Olaf Soot - Exhibit at the Greenwich Art Society Gallery

2011-02-03T16:05:00.000-08:00

Please join member Olaf Soot for a reception at the Greenwich Art Society Gallery at 299 Greenwich Avenue on March 15, 2011 from 6-8PM. The exhibit will be on display from March 15-April 8, 2011.

More Photos from the AAC Winter Outing

2011-01-29T07:55:00.000-08:00

New pictures and details of climbs from the AAC Winter Outing 2011 in the Adirondacks.

Presentation on Thursday February 3, 2011

2011-01-29T07:46:00.000-08:00

High Peaks and Lofty Dreams
Denali: The High One. At Last.

Thursday, February 3, 2011
7:00 p.m.
REI
71 Raymond Road (Blue Back Square)
West Hartford, CT 06107
860-233-2211

Three times over fifteen years, adventure photographer and high altitude mountaineer Walt Hampton attempted to climb Mt. McKinley (Denali), North America's highest peak. Turned back twice by ferocious winds, unrelenting snows and unmitigated fears, Hampton nearly abandoned his lifelong dream of summiting The High One. But with uncompromising tenacity, he returned this past June to finally stand on top.

Denali sits in the heart of the Alaska Range and has a vertical rise higher than Everest's. Known for its extreme cold and dangerous storms, Denali is not for the unprepared or faint of heart.

Hampton, who climbed with his wife and his son, will share his daring adventures, his struggle to achieve an elusive goal, and his spectacular photography. He'll talk about dreams denied and dreams fulfilled; what it takes to succeed in the mountains - and in life.

Come and explore the possibility of climbing in the Greater Ranges. Come ponder your own dreams of adventure and daring. Or just come and enjoy some extraordinary photos and a great tale.

Walt Hampton
Senior Mentor
Summit Success, LLC
P.O. Box 759
Canton, CT 06019-0759
walt@summit-success.com
860-306-4057
Follow me on Twitter: @walthampton
Visit our blog at: www.journeysontheedge.net
For recent work and gallery updates, visit:
www.hamptonphoto.com

AAC Winter Outing - January 21, 2011

2011-01-29T07:34:00.000-08:00

Ron Bixby Top First Pitch, Neurosis

Ron Bixby Finishes Pitchoff Right, Temperature About 10 Degrees, Photo by Vic Benes

Vic Benes on Pitchoff Right

Wild Utah Event - February 22, 2011 - Members Janet and Greg Frux

2011-01-17T15:59:00.000-08:00

JOIN US FOR WILD UTAH, AN ILLUSTRATED ARTISTS TALK
The Tuesday Evening Hour, Inc. 49 Fulton Street, New York (One block from South Street Seaport).
FEBRUARY 22nd, 6:30 P.M. $2 donation

Janet and Greg will report on their exploration of Utah Wilderness
illustrated by photos and artwork they created while in the windswept canyons.
Working closely with information from Southern Utah Wilderness Alliance
they will discuss the conservation and ecological concerns of the area

January 9, 2011 - AAC NY Section in Harriman Park

2011-01-10T17:26:00.000-08:00

Rock & Ice Magazine Review of the Annual Dinner

2010-11-21T16:53:00.000-08:00

The annual black tie dinner at the New York Section of the American Alpine Club is perennially sold out, and for good reason: the august and elegant setting of the Union Club...

http://www.rockandice.com/news/1238-sure-climbers-can-wear-black-tie

Mike Barker & Mike Lederer Presentation - Thursday October 28th

2010-10-21T20:17:00.000-07:00

Date: October 28, 2010 at 7 pm
Location: The North Face® Store - Uptown, 2101 Broadway (at 73rd), New York, NY

Join Michael Lederer and Mike Barker as they share images and experiences from their expedition into the heart of the English Mountains in winter conditions. This remote subarctic wilderness range is now part of the Mealy Mountain National Park Reserve—larger than Yellowstone and Yosemite combined. And it’s located as close to midtown Manhattan as Miami Beach!

On their journey, Mike and Michael did some pioneering climbing, witnessed spectacular scenery and found tremendous opportunities for future outdoor adventures. Their many years of experience prepared them for the challenges of the arctic weather and climbing, but not for the wrath of the Cave Creatures of local Innu legend. . .

About the presenters:
Michael Lederer has organized and led numerous four-season wilderness mountaineering expeditions for more than three decades. He is focused on exploring seldom-visited ranges or peaks, including several first ascents in the Battle Range of British Columbia's Columbia Mountains, and in the Alaska/Canada Boundary Ranges.

Mike Barker has been climbing since 1970; has led and guided rock, ice, alpine and high altitude expeditions in Asia, South America and throughout the US and Canada. Over the years he has introduced a multitude of people to mountaineering and climbing, and has been continually motivated to seek out, explore and perform numerous first ascents in an array of undeveloped areas.

Michael and Mike are both members of the New York Section of the American Alpine Club and proudly carried the NY Section Flag on this successful exploratory expedition.

Nepal Tourism Board - Tourism Year 2011

2010-10-06T08:51:00.000-07:00

The Nepal Tourism Board would like to inform you that Nepal will be celebrating the year 2011 as “Nepal Tourism Year 2011 (NTY 2011).” This national tourism campaign will be observed in close cooperation with Nepalese travel trade sector and concerned organizations/experts. This announcement of Government of Nepal reflects the government’s anticipation to bring into Nepal at least one million international tourists by the year 2011.
In this regard, Nepal Tourism Board in association with the Permanent Mission of Nepal to the UN and Nepalese Travel Trade have planned a special Event ‘NTY 2011 Launch Program’ in New York on October 12, 2010 to promote NTY 2011 among the US Trade and Press fraternity.
One of the main special attractions of the Event will be to honor the US mountaineers who have scaled Mt. Everest and Mt. Dhaulagiri. The Cabinet Meeting held on May 7, 2010 has made a decision to provide gratis visa to Mt. Everest and Mt. Dhaulagiri summiteers from May 7, 2010 to 31st December 2011 on the occasion of Nepal Tourism Year 2011.
Similarly, Nepal Tourism Year 2011 under the chairmanship of Hon’ble Minister for Tourism and Civil Aviation made an announcement to honor all Everest Summitteers as ‘NTY 2011 Honorary Goodwill Ambassadors.’ This letter of appointment signed by Hon’ble Minister for Tourism and Civil Aviation will be handed over to the Summitteers in NY to those who were unable to collect the same during 3rd International Everest Day held in Kathmandu on May 29, 2010.
As our Nepal Mission in New York has specially mentioned that we seek your assistance in inviting/informing the Summiteers to our Event on 14th October, we ask you to forward this correspondence to your members. We would appreciate if the attending Summiteers could contact the PR company MICE to confirm participation.

31st Annual Dinner in New York City

2010-10-02T15:16:00.000-07:00

Saturday, November 13, 2010

31 st NY Section Annual Black Tie Dinner. Union Club New York City

“A Seven Summits Silver Anniversary Celebration ” featuring Special Guests

Dick Bass, Dave Breashears, Phil Ershler and “Bo” Parfet

Twenty Five Years ago last April, Dick Bass, partnered with Dave Breashears, summitted Everest thus concluding a three year quest to climb the highest point on all Seven Continents, a feat which had not been accomplished before. Since then, more than 275 climbers have followed in Dick's footsteps and completed the odyssey with many more on their way. It has been a boon to the guiding industry and has spawned numerous books and films.

Invitations to this event are available on request from Section Chair Phil Erard at philiperard@nysalpineclub.org or at 212-763-0379. The event is run as a benefit for the AAC Library. Tickets are available by advance subscription only: none will be sold at the Door.

REEL ROCK Tour - Friday, September 17, 2010 (THIS FRIDAY!)

2010-09-15T09:45:00.000-07:00

The fifth annual REEL ROCK Film Tour brings the best in climbing and adventure films to local audiences across the globe. REEL ROCK shows are spirited events where climbers and outdoors lovers come together to celebrate and sample the ultimate in adventure filmmaking. Prize giveaways, appearances by top climbers, and fundraising for non-profit organizations are always part of the party at REEL ROCK events.

This year, REEL ROCK turns five, and co-founders Sender Films and Big UP Productions are celebrating by taking you on a global ride like never before. From death-defying speed link-ups of the wildest faces in The Alps, to Olympian displays of strength and tenacity on the hardest boulders ever climbed, REEL ROCK 2010 features a breathtaking journey through the vertical realm with the heroes of rock and snow.

For more information about The REEL ROCK Film Tour please visit www.reelrocktour.com.

Venue: Manhattan Plaza Health Club, 482 W. 43 Street (near 10th Ave), Climbing Gym upstairs
Date: Friday, September 17, 2010 (THIS FRIDAY!)
Time: 8:00pm

Tickets and Registration: http://www.outdoorbound.com/index.php/events/sub/reel_rock_movie_tour_at_mphc_climbing_gym/

Presented by Vic's Table Mesa, Boulder Rock Club, The Spot Gym, Movement, CU Alpine Club, American Alpine Club and Colorado Daily.

SAVE THE DATE! - AAC ANNUAL DINNER

2010-08-26T19:59:00.000-07:00

Saturday, November 13th, 2010

Thirty First Annual New York Section Dinner Gala
Union Club
New York City

"A Seven Summits Silver Anniversary Celebration"

Special Guests:
Dick Bass, Dave Breashears, Phil Ershler, Bo Parfet
and honoring our own Section Seven Summiteers

Invitations and Subscription Forms will be in the mail late September

Please support AAC Member Robert Walljasper

2010-08-26T19:58:00.000-07:00

Robert Walljasper, our pancake cook at the Ausable Outing, is a professional chef and the organizer of the Annual Societe Culinaire Philantropique Gala Picnic in New Paltz. Under a tent and with a decided French atmosphere and cuisine ( pate, boeuf with champignons, vin rouge,etc) Robert ministers to a 500 person crowd under a tent with door prizes, games,etc. This is an annual event, not to be missed, by its devotees many of whom are food service professionals and chefs who come from Manhattan.

This year the event is on Sunday September 12 and begins at 1 PM, ideal for an early morning climb in the Gunks followed by a sumptous sit down feast.
Robert extends an invitation to attend the event to his fellow mates at the AAC.
Tickets are a trivial $45 per person: there is even a RT bus from Manhattan for another $25.

Please let Phil know if you can attend and are interested in forming an AAC table. Please note reservations close Monday August 30th.

Ron Bixby and Vic Benes at the Summit of Forbidden Peak, North Cascades

2010-07-30T12:01:00.001-07:00

The Wildest Dream - New York City Premier with Conrad Anker

2010-07-29T05:01:00.000-07:00

Please join the NY Chapter of the AAC for the premiere of The Wildest Dream, a new National Geographic release featuring board member Conrad Anker. Ticket information can be found below.

Please join the AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB for the NYC premiere of National Geographic Entertainment’s
THE WILDEST DREAM: CONQUEST OF EVEREST
With special guest CONRAD ANKER
Friday, August 6th
7:15 PM
Regal E Walk 13
247 West 42nd Street
New York, NY 10036
TICKETS are $16 for Adults, $12 for Seniors and Children
Tickets can be purchased in advance for the 7:15 PM show at Fandango. Tickets can also be purchased at the Box Office the day of the show. Questions? Please contact Phil Erard, NY Section Chair.
Driven by empire, torn by love, George Mallory disappeared in 1924, a mere 800 feet from his goal of summiting Mount Everest. Now Conrad Anker returns to Everest to recreate Mallory's climb and solve a mystery that has spanned generations. Directed by Emmy® award winning filmmaker Anthony Geffen and featuring the vocal talents of Academy Award® nominees Liam Neeson and Ralph Fiennes, as well as Hugh Dancy, Alan Rickman and the late Natasha Richardson, "The Wildest Dream: Conquest of Everest" is a breathtaking mountaineering adventure that seeks to provide answers to the enduring mysteries surrounding the death of George Mallory on Mount Everest. Foremost among them: Could Mallory have succeeded in reaching the summit before he and fellow climber Andrew “Sandy” Irvine disappeared in 1924?

Vic Benes on the Summit of Shuksan

2010-07-28T18:13:00.000-07:00

Here's Vic Benes on the summit of Mt. Shuksan. The 4th time up was a charm!

No Way Down: Booklaunch with writer Graham Bowley

2010-07-09T09:24:00.000-07:00

Wednesday, July 21
Reading at 7:00 p.m.
Cost: Free
Happy hour with cash bar, 5:00-7:00p.m. with live spiral performance by Sufi singers from Pakistan.

“A refreshingly unadorned account of the true brutality of climbing K2, where heroes emerge and egos are stripped down, and the only thing achieving immortality is the cold ruthless mountain.”
— Norman Ollestad, author of Crazy for the Storm

New York Times reporter Graham Bowley reads from his harrowing account of the worst mountain climbing disaster on K2, second to Everest in height, but second to no peak in terms of danger. From tragic deaths to unbelievable stories of heroism and survival, No Way Down is an amazing feat of storytelling and adventure writing, and, in the words of explorer and author Sir Ranulph Fiennes, “the closest you can come to being on the summit of K2 on that fateful day.”

With its near-perfect pyramid shape, the 28,251-foot K2—the world's second-highest mountain, some 800 feet shorter than the legendary Everest hundreds of miles to the south—has lured serious climbers for decades. In 2008, near the end of a brief climbing season cut even shorter by bad weather, no fewer than ten international teams—some experienced, others less prepared—crowded the mountain's dangerous slopes with their Sherpas and porters, waiting to ascend.

Finally, on August 1, they were able to set off. But hindered by poor judgment, lack of equipment, and overcrowded conditions, the last group did not summit until nearly 8 p.m., hours later than planned. Then disaster struck when a huge ice chunk from above the Bottleneck, a deadly 300-foot avalanche-prone gulley just below the summit, came loose and destroyed the fixed guide ropes. More than a dozen climbers and porters still above the Bottleneck—many without oxygen and some with no headlamps—faced the near impossibility of descending in the blackness with no guideline and no protection. Over the course of the chaotic night, some would miraculously make it back. Others would not.

Based on in-depth interviews with surviving climbers and many Sherpas, porters, and family and friends of the deceased, No Way Down reveals for the first time the full dimensions of this harrowing drama.

RUBIN MUSEUM OF ART
150 WEST 17TH STREET
NEW YORK CITY 10011
www.rmanyc.org
212.620.5000 x344

David Breashears "Rivers of Ice" Reception at the Asia Society on Tuesday 7/13

2010-07-09T07:57:00.000-07:00

New York Section of the American Alpine Club members are invited to attend a special reception of David Breashears 'Rivers of Ice' on Tuesday, June 13th from 6-8PM. Breashears is the noted film maker and mountaineer. Please RSVP to RIVERSofICE@AsiaSociety.org by July 9th for the reception. The event will be held at the Asia Society at 725 Park Avenue in New York.

Rivers of Ice: Vanishing Glaciers of the Greater Himalaya showcases the work of photographer and mountaineer David Breashears, who with Glacier Research Imaging Project (GRIP), has retraced the steps of renowned mountain photographers of the past century to recapture images of these mountains and their glaciers from exactly the same vantage points. Rivers of Ice displays his recent photographs alongside the corresponding historic images, revealing the alarming loss in ice mass that has taken place over the intervening years.

Clouds lifting off Carrauntoohil, view back to Caher and its West Peak, Vic Benes at the Iron Cross atop Carrauntoohil

2010-06-25T10:10:00.002-07:00

Coomloghta Glen, with Loghs Eagher and Coomlochra, view NW from arete between

2010-06-25T10:10:00.001-07:00

Logh Curraghmor, view South from arete between Caher and Carrauntoohil, McGillicuddy

2010-06-25T10:09:00.001-07:00

More Photos from the Adirondacks

2010-06-20T14:09:00.001-07:00

Ron Bixby on summit of Haystack.

View of Marcy from Haystack through clouds and mist.

Andrew Miller on 1st leg of Haystack Route-Lower Ausable Lake to Wardens Cabin.

Member Dan Lochner Taking on Khan Tengri

2010-06-13T16:15:00.000-07:00

Please join the AAC Section in wishing the best of luck to member Dan Lochner as he takes on Khan Tengri in late July solo. Khan Tengri is the 50th highest mountain in the world and the most northern 7,000m peak.

More Photos from the Adirondacks

2010-06-13T16:09:00.000-07:00

Leanne Burrell on the trail to Colvin and Blake.

Leanne Burrell on the Scenic Trail to Sawteeth.

Andrew Miller and Ron Bixby on Indian Head in the Adirondacks

2010-06-11T06:38:00.000-07:00

Andrew Miller and Ron Bixby on Indian Head late afternoon 6-4-2010, looking south at the Ausable Lakes--perhaps one of the best views in the Adirondacks. Photo by John Tiernan.

Invitation from Member Robert Walljasper for June 21, 2010

2010-06-10T01:31:00.000-07:00

Robert Walljasper would like to invite AAC NY Section members to the June 21, 2010 Les Amis d'Escoffier Casino Night & Benefit to benefit the Natalie Toedter Fund at Chelsea Piers.

Monday June 21, 2010 – 6:30PM-9:30PM – Business Attire
Pier 60, Chelsea Piers at West Side Highway and 23rd Street, New York City

Admission
$125 per person in advance or $170 at the door
Your admission ticket allows you to enjoy a wide variety of extraordinary food and desserts prepared for you by leading chefs, plus fine wines and spirits contributed by prestigious wine distributors.

For reservations, mail your check payable to:

Les Amis d’Escoffier Society Foundation
787 Ridgewood Road, Millburn, NJ 07041
For more information, visit the website at www.escoffier-society.com

John Tiernan at the Summer Outing

2010-06-10T01:25:00.000-07:00

6-5-2010--Along the trail to Marcy Dam we came to this beaver dam that, as you see, held water some 4 ft above the trail surface. But note that the dam farther back is about the same height again, so that pond's level is more like 8 ft above the trail. Woe to anyone walking that trail when the dam fails. But the beavers' engineering is uncanny.

June 5, 2010--John Tiernan led The March of the Amazons over Avalanche Pass to Avalanche Lake. From left are Laurie Weisman, Leslie Barrett, Ela Bialek, Julie Floyd, Rosza Schlenker, Tiernan, and Rose Sculley back at Marcy Dam, with John refusing to admit a chest infection to which he later had to defer. Photo by Mark Kassner.

More Photos from the Adirondack Summer Outing

2010-06-10T01:20:00.001-07:00

Photos from the Adirondack Summer Outing June 2010

2010-06-10T01:15:00.000-07:00

Everest Day Invitation

2010-05-20T17:57:00.000-07:00

NY Section members and their guests are invited by H.E. the Nepal Ambassador to the UN to an Everest Day reception and cultural celebration. The event will be on Saturday May 29 at the Rubin Museum in Manhattan from 6:30-8:30PM. Everest Day commemorates the first ascent of Everest on May 29, 1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. A variety of events are planned both in Nepal and elsewhere in connection with that historic day, including the annual Everest Marathon from Base Camp to Namche Bazaar and an international cleanup expedition, currently underway, on Everest. The Rubin is on the corner of 17th St. & 7th Avenue.

Attire: Suit and Tie for Men ; Cocktail attire for ladies.

Please RSVP ( acceptances only) directly to the Nepal Mission.

212-370- 3988/89
nepalmissionusa@gmail.com

Hope to see you there!

Tuesday May 18 - You Want to Go Where?

2010-05-17T08:49:00.000-07:00

AAC New York Section members are invited to a presentation of You Want to Go Where?

7 p.m., Tuesday, May 18, 2010, Tent & Trails, 21 Park Place

New York

Jeff Blumenfeld’s presentation is based on his new book, “You Want to Go Where?” (Skyhorse Publishing) that covers some of the world’s most historic expeditions and adventures with an eye towards how people can gain funding for their own travels.

The talk, which has been presented at The Explorers Club, The Adventurers Club, the American Mountaineering Museum, and in early January 2010 off the coast of Antarctica, includes illustrations of such noteworthy adventures as:

Norman Vaughan - climbed Antarctic mountain named after himself

Will Steger - first confirmed dog sled trek to the North Pole

Reid Stowe - currently engaged in his quest to be at sea for 1,152 days, a record

Mike Haugen - climbed tallest U.S. peaks in record time

Paul Schurke – dogsled expedition across the Bering Strait

Barbara Hillary - went to the North Pole; now wants to go to the South at 77

Andre Tolme – adventure golf? Yes indeed. He hit a golf ball across Mongolia

Blumenfeld then explains that companies are not there to pay for your vacation. However, if you have a project that is bigger than yourself - a trip with a purpose - it is possible to generate cash or in-kind (gear) support. His talk is illustrated with over 40 photographs taken all over the world, including a selection from his recent Antarctic expedition.

Jeff Blumenfeld is editor of Expedition News, a 16-year-old monthly newsletter that covers the adventure marketing world. A resident of New Canaan, Conn., he is a member of The Explorers Club, the American Alpine Club, and a Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society. In January 2010 he was a chaperone on a students educational trip to Antarctica (studentsonice.com).

Tent & Trails

21 Park Place

New York, New York 10007

(212) 227-1760 or (212) 227-1761

(21 Park Place is just off Broadway opposite City Hall Park)

AAC Library Fundraiser

2010-05-06T06:04:00.000-07:00

The AAC library is hosting a Barnes and Noble Fundraiser that has the potential to raise quite a bit in support. If you think members in your section would be interested, please help spread the word!! They can shop online, too, so they don't need to be in CO to participate. Here's the link: http://aaclibrary.wordpress.com/aac-book-sale/ and also a facebook event to spread easily: http://www.facebook.com/event.php?eid=110394758989996&index=1
NEW! Shop at Barnes and Noble on May 20-May 23rd in any store nationwide, or ONLINE from May 20-28th, and we get a percentage of the sale! You must present this Voucher -don’t forget to take it with you!
On the payment page for your online purchases, you will see a prompt “Is this a Bookfair Order”. When you click on it, you will get a payment screen where you can enter your book fair ID number in the space provided. This book fair ID number is the same provided by your organization for in store shopping.
Our BookFair ID is 10135614
Contact the library for more information at 303-384-0112, or email Beth directly at bheller@americanalpineclub.org.

Brooklyn Showing of 'The Disciples of Gill'

2010-05-02T22:40:00.000-07:00

On Monday, May 3rd, at Brooklyn Boulders, one of the areas newest climbing gyms, the movie 'The Disciples of Gi;l' will be playing. 'The Disciples of Gill' is about John Gill, one of the greatest boulders of all-time. The movie begins at 8PM and costs $10. Brooklyn Boulders - http://www.brooklynboulders.com/

Olaf Soot Photo Presentation at the Explorers Club

2010-03-25T14:33:00.000-07:00

On Monday April 12, Olaf Soot will be presenting a slide show of his adventures and climbs in Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego at the Explorers Club, 46 East 70th Street. Cocktail reception 6:00 PM; Show at 7PM. Admission $20 at the door if seats are available. To guarantee a spot RSVP with credit card info to 212-628-8383 .As we all know, Olaf's shows and photos are breathtaking and this will be no exception.

Vic Benes finishing Smear 4+, Devil's Kitchen, Platte Cove, Catksills

2010-03-07T08:54:00.001-08:00

Ron Bixby on Purgatory 4+, Devils Kitchen, Platte Cove, Catskills

2010-03-07T08:52:00.000-08:00

Vic Benes Climbing and Topping Standard Left 4, Frankenstein Cliff, NH, February 11, 2010

2010-02-18T19:48:00.000-08:00

Catskills Winter Outing : February 26-28th

2010-02-13T10:56:00.000-08:00

Catskills Winter Outing: February 26-28, 2010
Deer Mountain Inn
Tannersville, NY
www.deermountaininn.com

Here is the long awaited announcement of NY Section AAC’s 2nd Winter Outing! After a
challenging search, we discovered the Deer Mountain Inn located in the woods two miles north of Tannersville, NY on Route 25. It features beautiful rooms with fireplaces, an excellent restaurant, full bar, ample congregation space, peaceful quiet and very convenient proximity to Hunter, Windham and Belleayre for downhill skiing, and to Stony, Platte, and Kaaterskill Cloves for ice climbing. Plus we will have the entire inn to ourselves. There is every indication that Catskills ice is having a super season.

While the focus is on ice and downhill, there are opportunities for back-country, cross country (Mountain Trails Cross Country Ski Center), winter hiking and snowshoeing. The LP (Long Path) is nearby, along with many moderate and difficult summits. And after a hard day in the cold, there’s nothing quite like socializing by the large fireplace followed by an excellent dinner. Or just plain loafing.

If you wish to climb guideless please arrange for your own partner as we won’t “fix”
people up with leaders or seconds. If you want to climb with a guide, you need to
arrange that yourself. Alpine Endeavors (marty@alpineendeavors.com) know the area
well, Mountain-Skills at www.meetup.com/Mountain-Skills-Climbing-Guides, or
HighXposure Adventures at info@high-xposure.com.

As usual, there shall be no more than one guest per member. You may email Andréa at
andreasalerno66@gmail.com or fax in your reservation to 917.210.3788 but a check
and release for each member of your party must immediately follow. Please be
aware that we have mostly rooms with several large beds, so that judicious choices and sacrifices may be necessary in assigning them. But then, we’re mountaineers ….

A signed release from all participants, included and returned with the registration
form and payment is required.

Any questions should be directed to Andréa Salerno at andreasalerno66@gmail.com or
917.531.3796 or Vic Benes at vabenes@earthlink.net or 973.467.8460. For detailed
travel instructions, visit www.deermountaininn.com.

American Alpine Club New York Section 2009 Annual Report

2010-02-13T10:54:00.000-08:00

NEW YORK SECTION 2009 REVIEW

The beginning of any new decade brings with it a moment of reflection and analysis. During the 2000’s the New York Section Alpine Club Community almost doubled in size. Perhaps more important than membership growth , however, was a heightened spirit of community and brotherhood, manifested in consistently sold out events and a high degree of volunteerism. We reached several milestones: Our January Adirondack winter outing, where good conditions seem to be the norm, is a year short of its 20th Anniversary while the June Ausable Club weekend is close to celebrating its 30th anniversary. Meanwhile an active program of slide shows, films and other indoor events continues as in the past.

Of note, our Annual Black Tie Dinner in November is now known throughout the climbing world, gathers members from the far reaches of the country, consistently sells out and makes a meaningful contribution to the Club’s financial well being. Since its start 30 years ago, the Dinner has raised over $250,000 for the Library and Journal. It is also a family reunion, with old faces celebrating their friendships and newcomers being welcomed to the Brotherhood of the Rope, to paraphrase Charley Houston.

Some of the highlights of 2009 were the launch of Olaf Soot’s new book, Alpine Americas, with page after page of the most beautiful and inspired photographs of peaks from Barrow to Cape Horn. Also Fritz Selby published a fine memoir of his postings and adventures in Nepal in the 1960’s in his “Postcards from Kathmandu”. Once again the Section furnished guides in June for the Rubin Museum’s annual “Peak Experience” simulated climb of Everest for 11-14 year olds.

As the first Section to have its own website, we took a major step forward took with the creation of a Section blog where members are invited to post trip reports, photos and videos. Our thanks go to Vic Benes for years of dedicated editorship and to Conor Moran for revamping the site and creating http://nysaac.blogspot.com. The main Section website is http://nysalpineclub.org

At the Dinner our two Mikes, Michael Lederer and Mike Barker, returned the Section flag from a winter exploratory mountaineering expedition to the English mountains of Labrador. The main event, however, was our special guest speaker, Stephen Venables, who, in his droll, witty and Oxonian accent, took the audience back to the 1988 Kangshung Face Everest Expedition with a small, lightweight team, to Sarmiento with Roskelley and South Georgia with Messner and Anker.

Just a month before, however, the Section suffered a tragic loss. Clif Maloney, after summiting Cho Oyu and thus becoming, at age 71, the oldest American to climb an 8000 meter peak, perished on the descent. Present at the Dinner and accepting our tribute, were Clif’s widow Carolyn and their two daughters. Two weeks later about 30 of Clif’s close friends and family gathered for a memorial hike in the Hudson Highlands where he had spent so many hours training. Later that day we gathered for a sumptuous reception at the Galligan home in Garrison to reminisce and tell stories about our dear friend and brother.

In her memorable review of the Annual Dinner in Rock and Ice, Susan Schwartz penned the following response to the inevitable question of “why”, not only relative to Clif’s demise but also to Venables’ own loss when his young son died of cancer:
“Some of us climb, I believe, as a way to bring order and control to our personal universe. But climbing has a way of yanking hard on our chain to remind us that there is a limit to how much we can control. At some point, no matter how stubborn, talented or hard working we are, we step out of our world of personal control and one of cosmic caprice, whether it be Everest, Cho Oyu or cancer.”

Philip Erard
NY Section Chair

February, 2010

New AAC Video Trailer Available

2010-02-13T10:53:00.000-08:00

The new AAC Video is out - check it out here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxNI17-bjZg&feature=youtube_gdata

More Photos from Winter Outing No.1

2010-02-13T10:19:00.001-08:00

Where Awe Dwells

2010-02-04T16:45:00.000-08:00

Gallery Exhibit

Where Awe Dwells
Journeys In The Great Ranges

February 12, 2010 through March 13, 2010
Gallery on the Green
Dowd Avenue
Canton, CT 06019
860-693-4102

www.galleryongreen.org

Opening Reception

Saturday, February 13, 2010
6:00 to 9:00 p.m.

If you're interested in attending, please contact Walt at walt@hamptonphoto.com

Photos from the 2010 AAC Winter Outing

2010-01-25T19:55:00.000-08:00

Ron Bixby having hiked up Baxter Mountain in just boots on a mostly packed trail. It's a nice little mountain with great views for its size.

Wayne Wilson and Mim Galligan loafing in the sunny breakfast room at Rock & River before going out into the snow and unusually warm, windless day with brilliant sun.

Michael Schlenker starting the top pitch...

"Good To The Last Drop" Matt Horner
Image by Andrea Salerno

Holly Mauro In Apres Ski Mode
Image by Andrea Salerno

Gitta Soot & Mim Galligan
Image by Andrea Salerno

Joe Yanuzzi, Ron Bixby, Vic Benes, Andrea Salerno. Martin Torresquintero, Matt Horner
Image by Andrea Salerno

Image by Andrea Salerno

Image by Andrea Salerno

Andrea & Birthday Cake
Image by Andrea Salerno

Chris Galligan & Matt Horner
Image by Andrea Salerno

Special Invitations for AAC Members - 'North Face' Movie Premier

2010-01-23T15:10:00.000-08:00

TUESDAY, JANUARY 26TH, 7PM

Cinema Village Theatre

22 E. 12TH St, New York, NY

www.cinemavillage.com

‘NORTH FACE’ OPENS ON JANUARY 29TH

Landmark’s Sunshine Cinema

143 E. Houston St, New York, NY

NORTH FACE is a gripping adventure drama about a competition to climb the most dangerous rock face in the Alps. It’s 1936, and Nazi propaganda urges German Alpinists to conquer the unclimbed north face of the Swiss massif, the Eiger North Face – aka “Murder Wall” – before the Olympic Games begin. The legendary 1800-meter-high wall of stone and ice has been casting its spell for decades, and two young hot-shot Bavarian climbers, Toni Kurz (BENNO FÜRMANN) and Andi Hinterstoisser (FLORIAN LUKAS), are finally lured into the challenge. Preparing at the foot of the mountain, they cross paths with Toni’s childhood love, Luise (JOHANNA WOKALEK), who is reporting on the first ascent for a Berlin newspaper. Tensions rise as personal drama blends with the anticipation of the dangerous feat.

Realistically shot, NORTH FACE reveals the brutal struggle to survive on the mountain. Director/screenwriter Philipp Stölzl keeps viewers as breathless as if they were climbing the mountain themselves, rather than sitting comfortably in a theatre.

Member Greg Frux's Trip to the Canadian Rockies

2010-01-17T20:54:00.000-08:00

Please check out Greg's trip report on the Canadian Rockies along with a large number of paintings he has done at the following site : http://frux.net/glacier.html

Climbing in the Canadian Rockies 2009
By Gregory W. Frux

Matt Powell, Matt Burd and I (all AAC members) had the opportunity to visit Lake Louise. Yoho and Banff National Parks during August and September 2009. This was my third trip to western Canada and I was eager to share the charms of the area with two of my long- time climbing partners. We designed a trip where we travelled on our own for the first portion and with a guide service for several more technical objectives for the second half.

Our base of operation for much of the trip was the Lake Louise Hostel (http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/facility/cac.html) where AAC members get a discount and a warm welcome. You have to love a “hostel” with its own restaurant and bar! We had a superb warm up hike from Lake Louise to the Plain of Six Glaciers and the teahouse, from which we could see the Abbot Pass Hut, one of our later objectives.

On day three we shuttled our car to the end point of our hike, shouldered our 40 pound packs and set off from the north end of the Wapta Traverse, starting above Peyto Lake. We’d booked a total of six nights at 4 alpine club huts along the route and were using the traverse map sold by the Alpine Club of Canada. After about two and a half hours walking we were faced with a choice at a bridge across a torrent: our map showed two routes, the longer one crossed the bridge, while a more direct line continued up alongside the stream. While the direct route wasn't obvious, we convinced ourselves that a passable line could be made out to the gulley left of the rock buttress. Above this gulley, the 'route' got pretty frightening. We found ourselves on loose rock slopes which ended in a cliff hanging above a raging, icy torrent. It turned out that route we were on was used in the winter only, for ski touring. After two slow and tenuous hours on sliding rocks we climbed out of the gulley and reached the tongue of the glacier. From there access to the Wapta Icefield and Peyto Hut was easy. The vista from the hut is superb and the facilities extremely comfortable. We gave ourselves a treat and took a day off to lounge.

After our rest day we headed off across the Wapta Ice Sheet. Our plan was to traverse about 4 or 5 miles to the next shelter, the Bow Hut. The hike was going so well that we decided we had time to climb one of the nearby mountains enroute, South Rhondda (elevation 10,046 ft.). The summit was reached via 30 to 40 degree snow slopes and a ridgeline walk in the sky. In the meantime our gear, cached on the icefield, suffered a raid by ravens, the major casualty being a salami. The day turned more serious as we navigated towards the Bow Hut, via compass and GPS in a thunderstorm. The direct line route down led us into steep and hazardous terrain criss-crossed with large crevasses. Locating the hut took a little faith as it cannot be seen from the heavily creviced tongue of glacier that one descends to approach it. Fortunately an end run delivered us to solid ground and soon to the safety of Bow Hut.

We took another day off to rest, enjoy the view and reconsider our plans. We were growing concerned about the large number of big crevasses on the route. Ahead of us, two days further on was an area that was supposed to more difficult and dangerous. We heard that there had been less snow the previous winter and we saw lots of melting. [Yes, I think this is connected to global climate change]. We decided to shorten the traverse but to climb another peak before exiting-- Mt. Gordon, highest mountain in the range.

We regained the ice field and navigate towards the summit of Gordon, about three miles distant. To get there we cross a bergshrund on a snow bridge and climbed 40 degree snow sloops. We reached the summit without major difficulties at around 11:30 AM. (elevation ~10,500 ft). Return to Bow Hut was followed closely by rain and snow squalls and gale force winds. This made very appreciative of the wood stove at the hut. We exited the traverse the next day via a rugged trail down to Bow Lake, hitchhiking to pick up the car. After a restorative day at the Banff Hot Springs and a walk below the north face of Mount Temple, we were ready for our next adventure.

We met up with our climbing guides Dave Scott and Norman Winter and together took the shuttle bus to the justly famous Lake O'Hara. Our destination for the day was Abbott Pass Hut about 3000 feet above Lake O'Hara, enroute to climbing Mount Victoria. During our spectacular ascent we passed a mountain goat. We ignored the deteriorating weather, which devolved into a full on snow storm by the time we reached the hut. It was an interesting night, as we had elected not to carry sleeping bags, but to use the hut’s blankets instead. The real challenge was the exposed traverse to the outhouse, which everyone seemed to make several times that night! Next morning conditions were no better and after waiting until noon we retreated. Even the next day there were still lenticular clouds over Mt. Victoria.

After the retreat, we took the extra day to go rock climbing at the famous cliffs at Yamuneska, climbing The Keel Haul Wall (5.6), six pitches. This served as warm up for our last route of the trip, Brewers Buttress (5.6), 13 pitches on Castle Mountain. A three thousand foot hike and scramble put us on a ledge system for a stay at one of Canada’s smallest Alpine Club Huts, fitting six, perhaps http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/facility/castle.html. This allowed our diminished team, Matt Burd, Guide Dave Scott and I to make a predawn start of the climb. The limestone arête was extremely aesthetic, user friendly and airy. For speed Dave belayed us on a single rope for the first ten pitches, with Greg trailing the second rope. We switched to two ropes for several awkward chimneys near the top of the climb. The summit was reached in time for lunch. We encountered two hikers at the summit, revealing an easier, if longer way to the top. The protracted descent involved down climbing scree, several short rappels and a long hike to the bottom, arriving at dusk. Meantime Matt Powell and Norman Winters meantime successfully ascended Ha Ling Peak via a technical rock route.

Many thanks to the Alpine Club of Canada for their great facilities and to our fine guides Dave Scott and Norman Winter at Revelstoke Alpine Adventures. http://www.revelstokealpine.ca/

AAC Providing Relief to Haiti

2010-01-17T20:17:00.000-08:00

Dear Friends, family and business associates.

I’m writing to you now to ask for your help with the humanitarian aid for victims of the horrendous earthquake which hit Haiti on Wednesday.

I am working with our local Anna Jaques Hospital, their affiliate Partners in Development and Jim Ansara in organizing a collection drive for tents and sleeping bags (or money to purchase the same and help with shipping) to aid the tens of thousands of displaced and injured people in Haiti. Along with clean water, food and medical supplies, temporary shelter is desperately needed. Used tents as long as they are functional, and lightweight sleeping bags are fine and of course new tents and sleeping bags from any of our outdoor industry friends would be ideal. Since the climate is hot, lightweight sleeping bags are preferable and larger, camping style tents would be best but anything will be used. We will set up Mark Richey Wood working as the collection center, check all equipment and prepare for shipping to Haiti.

Time of course is of the essence and any help will be greatly appreciated.

I am also planning to fly down to Haiti as a volunteer as soon as possible.

Thanks in advance for your help,

Mark

Mark Richey
President
Mark Richey Woodworking
www.markrichey.com
40 Parker Street
Newburyport, MA 01950-4056
Main Tel: 978.499.3800
Main Fax: 978.499.3840
Direct Tel: 978.463.7222
Direct Fax: 978.462.3981

The Disappearing Snows of Everest

2010-01-13T20:52:00.001-08:00

Reproduced from The New York Review of Books Blog

In the fall of 1967 with two French friends I trekked from Kathmandu to the base of Mount Everest. At that time, climbing was forbidden in Nepal and the trekking business was in its infancy. During the thirty-seven days we were on our trek we saw less than a handful of other westerners and the ones we saw were in Nepal on official business. The high point of our trek in every sense was our climb of a small hillock named Kala Patthar. It was a grassy knoll whose summit was at 18,200 feet—about 800 feet above what had been the British base camp for Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay’s climb of Everest in 1953. From this summit one has a fantastic view of Everest and neighboring peaks, such as Nuptse and Lhotse. In fact, during a reconaissance mission with Hillary and others in 1951, the British climber Eric Shipton used vantage points on the ridge that Kala Patthar is part of to plot the route that Hillary’s team took in their ascent two years later.

What struck me on our trek is how tropical a country Nepal is when the altitude permits. It is at the latitude of Florida. The only reason that there is snow is because of the altitude. In fact, the snow line was around 5,000 meters. Kala Patthar’s altitude in meters is 5,550 and indeed when we left the summit it had begun to snow heavily. What also struck me was the significance of the rivers. The Dudh Kosi (milk) river and the Bhote Kosi drain the glaciers. The Bhote Kosi drains the Khumbu glacier at the base of Everest. They join and become, or became, a very mighty stream that eventually flows into the important rivers on the Indian sub-continent. This glacier water is the principle water supply for India during the non-monsoon periods. That supply is now threatened.

On December 4, the Nepalese cabinet met near the summit of Kala Patthar to call attention to global warmingThere are several warning signs. The Himalayan snow line has risen several hundred meters since I visited 1967. The Rongbuk glacier is melting at a rapid rate; the lower parts are beginning to look like a rock pile. Recent monsoons have been unusually intense, causing floods and mudslides in the low lands. It was with these worrying developments in mind that, on December 4, the entire cabinet of the Nepalese government, including Prime Minister Madhav Kumar, was flown to the international air strip at Lukla. This was basically a cow pasture that Hillary had converted into a landing strip, and when I visited it in 1967 it was still just that. When I went back twenty years later it looked more like a proper airport.

The twenty-two-member delegation took some time to adapt to the altitude and had medical checks before they were flown by helicopter to a spot below the summit of Kala Patthar. All of them were provided with oxygen masks. Tables had been set up and their meeting lasted some twenty minutes, during which they issued a declaration urging immediate steps to prevent the disappearance of the Himalayan glaciers. They were then flown by helicopter to the Sherpa village of Syangboche, where Kumar read the disturbing speech he had prepared for this week’s UN Climate Conference in Copenhagen to various local dignitaries. They included the important lama Ngegon Lama, who when the prime minister had finished speaking said, “There is no snow where there should be, no rain where there should be. I’m sure it is because of global warming.”

Cornish Estate

2010-01-13T20:48:00.000-08:00

http://www.hudsonvalleyruins.org/yasinsac/cornish/cornish1.html