Marty Mushkin near the top of Breakneck Ridge, Dec. 16, 2012, photo by Vic Benes



New Photos from the Breakneck Ridge Hike

Light scrambling on the Wilkinson Trail

Breakneck from the South Side

Summit of Breakneck with the New York Section



Hudson Highlands Holiday Hike - December 16th

It’s time to get some last minute exercise before the really serious Holiday festivities. Come join your fellow Section mates for a day of hiking in the Hudson Highlands followed by some Yuletide cheer.

The Gathering Place: Drivers and Train Riders will all meet at 9AM at the Breakneck Parking Area, on the West Side of 9D, just north of the tunnel, about 2 miles north of Cold Spring. The parking area is a short walk from the Breakneck Flag Stop where Metro North riders will debark. The Metro North Hudson Line Train to Beacon, with the Breakneck flag stop (on request), departs at 7:50 AM from Grand Central.

"Map of the Location"

 

The Hikes: Two are planned in the same area: One hard.: The Breakneck Direct; Up the slabs, great views but some exposure. One easy: The Wilkinson Trail with a return via Sugarloaf. Vic Benes will lead the fit up the Direct. Phil Erard will lead the couch potatoes on the easier one. Since it gets dark early, we hope to finish by 3:30/4:00 PM and head to the Galligans.

"Photos of the Parking Area and Climb"

 

The Aftermath: After the hikes, we will form a convoy of cars to the Galligan estate in Cold Spring for some wine, cheese and other delectables, arranged by our genial hosts, Chris & Mim Galligan. If you miss the hike or the convoy, you are still welcome.

"Boscobel-An Outstanding Example of New York Federal Architecture"

The Cost: A highly subsidized $15 per person, members and guests. Bring cash or check, but please RSVP so we can get a proper head count.

Fine Print: The Group size will be limited to the first 20 who sign up. So please email your RSVP asap to Phil Erard as soon as possible. The hike(s) go regardless of rain, sleet, snow, etc etc . (The hikes are really an excuse for the party).

More Pictures from the AAC NYS Annual Dinner

Annual New York Section Dinner Official Write Up by Susan Schaller

Enduring ...There is a wonderful, enduring sameness to the annual dinner ofthe New York Section of the American Alpine Club. It starts with the same location year after year -- the venerable Union Club on Park Avenue- many ofthe same faces (looking surprising and reassuringly unchanged)- and last but not least, the enduring high quality of the presentations.

This year's main speaker was Arlene Blum, notable in climbing history for being a groundbreaking woman mountaineer and the first and only woman to organize and lead the first ascent of an 8000 meter peak (which happened to be Annapurna, which holds the highest fatality rate per successful summit attempt of any of the Himalayan Goliaths).

Not incidentally, Arlene's resume includes other extraordinary factoids such as leading the first all women's ascent of Denali, on the compellingly titled, Damsels on Denali, and joining the team that made the second American ascent of Everest.

Arlene's presentation though takes on another layer of significance. While fascinating enough to hear her account of how she managed to break into the old boys' mountaineering club -- at a time when it was assumed that women lacked the emotional fiber and physical stuff to be mountaineers- Arlene's story offers a second track of how she broke into the old boys club of science. However, after earning a PhD in Biochemistry and pursuing post-doctoral work at Stanford, Arlene decided to put her scientific career on hold after her ascent of Annapuma and the death of her close friend, Bruce Carson.

Then about six years ago, Arlene decided to go back to science. The reason? Arlene had discovered a new mission- the fact that chemicals required by law to be put into children's pajamas supposedly to make the pajamas flame retardant are also carcinogenic.

This has become her mission: Of all of Arlene's many and impressive adventures, she considers this her biggest and most important role, dedicating herself to lobbying and working tirelessly to get this chemical banned not just from children's nightwear but also from common household objects such as furniture.

She faces vehement opposition from the chemical and furniture industries, and potentially even the builders as she expands her campaign to see whether building codes need to be revised. It's fair to say, that sometimes the greatest challenges come from human nature rather than Mother Nature.

Meanwhile, Arlene's presentation was preceded by the introduction of new members, acknowledgement of inspirational long time AAC members, and an auction which raised more than $10,000 for the Cliff Maloney Memorial Fund, which donates the money to young climbers to use to enable their dreams of climbing high peaks.

The "warm up" presentation could have been the evening highlight under other circumstances, with Mark Richey describing his alpine-style first ascent of the 7500 meter peak, Saeser Kangri II in the Indian Karakoram, which was the second highest unclimbed mountain in the world ( the highest unclimbed peak is in Bhutan and off limits for religious reasons). Even just getting to the base required navigating a steep gorge using fixed ropes. The experience ended happily, but not without the near death of Steve Swenson and his helicopter evacuation by the Indian Air Force.

The evening ended with a wonderful endearing sameness - great food and wine (duck breast was the entree on the menu), great friends, great fun, and of course, great presentations.

Susan Schaller

AAC 33rd Annual Dinner Pics Now Up!

Thanks to one of our members, we have some great photos and clips of the videos shown from the 33rd Annual Dinner.  The dinner was a great success with a live auction and a presentation by both Arlene Blum and Mark Richey.

Please view the photos and videos when you have a chance:  http://www.seungmoshin.blogspot.com/2012/11/black-tie-dinner-at-explorers-club.html 
(Note: Although it says the Explorers Club, the event was held at Union Club in New York).

Tickets for the 33rd Annual Dinner Now Available

The American Alpine Club ~ New York Section cordially invites you to the

33rd Annual Dinner

Saturday, November 10, 2012
Union Club
101 East 69th Street
New York, NY 10021

Special Report
Mark Richey
"Saser Kangri II"

Keynote:
Arlene Blum
"Breaking Trail: Annapurna & Beyond"

Cocktails: 5:30-7:00 P.M. Dinner: 7:00 P.M. Sharp
New Member Introductions Black Tie

Proceeds Will Benefit AAC Youth Climbing Grants

 

Ticket PricesAAC Members and up to three guests: $200 ea.

Additional Guests and Non Members: $225 ea.

Junior (35 and under) Member and one guest: $175 ea.

Reservations

Click Here to download our reservation form & pay by check.

Call 212-763-0379 for more information and to pay by credit card over the phone.

Click Here to pay by credit card online.
ContactFor more information and for tickets, contact:

Philip Erard
212-763-0379
philiperard@nysalpineclub.org

New York Section AAC
Box 5475
Rockefeller Station
New York, NY 10185

No reservations accepted without accompanying payment. Cancellations and full refunds made until November 2; after that only if we find a substitute. Please provide seating preferences and guests' names if available (tables seat 8 or 10). Dinner subscriptions in excess of $200 per person are tax deductible.

Special Menu: Wine Included

Door Prizes

Black Tie

New Film Debut : 40 Days at Base Camp : Wednesday October 17, 2012

 

40 Days at Base Camp

A Documentary Filmed on Mount Everest Rubin Museum of Art Seventh Avenue & 17th St. New York, NY Wednesday, October 17 7:00 p.m. $18
AAC Members get 10% off (museum member rate) - call 212.620.5000

Each spring, over 800 people attempt to reach the summit of Mt. Everest with a corporately sponsored team, or as an individual climber who can expect to pay up to a hundred thousand dollars for the experience. With the film crew embedded in life at base camp, 40 Days at Base Camp follows three climbing teams as they use the world's tallest mountain as a stage for personal achievement or as a platform for their cause. In a style of direct cinema combined with video diaries of climbers woven into the story, we meet the Columbian, Indian and Canadian climbing teams and witness their successes and also their failures as they pit themselves against the world’s highest peak. Meet the filmmaker at Himalayan Happy Hour 5-7 p.m. Special tour of Sherpa culture at 6:15 p.m. included in ticket.

2012 Annual Dinner - SAVE THE DATE

The American Alpine Club

-New York Section-

 

Thirty Third Annual Dinner

 

Saturday, November 10th, 2012

 

Union Club

101 Est 69th Street

 

Special Report

Mark Richey

"Sasser Kangri II"

 

Keynote:

Arlene Blum

"Breaking Trail - Annapurna & Beyond"

 

Cocktails 5:30-7PM

Dinner 7PM Sharp

 

New Member Introductions

Black Tie

Procees Will Benefit AAC Youth Climbing Grants

Tickets Will Be Available in Advance

AAC NYS Member James Holmes Cordillera Blanca Trip Report

I thought scientific exploration died when the last holes on the map were filled in. It lived only in stories (Charles Marlow and the uncharted heart of Africa in Joseph Conrad’s Heart of Darkness) and history (Apsley Cherry Gerard and his Worst Journey in the World to Antarctica and the South Pole). I’m not a scientist, but I believe strongly in its importance, and exploration is its most thrilling form. When I heard of the American Alpine Club’s Climber Science Program (ACSP), I couldn’t wait to learn more. The ACSP leads an annual expedition to the Cordillera Blanca mountains of Peru, where a mix of climbers, scientists, and climber-scientists venture all over the range climbing and collecting data in aid of alpine research. This was living, breathing scientific exploration and a project that I really wanted to be a part of. So from June 16-25, I travelled from New York to Peru to climb for science.

June 16, 2012 – New York, NY to Lima, Peru

And we’re off!

The Author Leaving New York. Photo by Dana Lucas.

June 17, 2012 – Huaraz, Peru

Elevation: 10,013 ft. Start acclimatizing. Huaraz is striking – the dry rolling peaks of the Cordillera Negra on the one side, and the soaring snow-capped summits of the Cordillera Blanca on the other. The Blanca are undergoing change, and the ACSP is studying this change. One change I’ve heard of is potential for water contamination from grazing and mining… and its effects on people’s stomachs. I hope I don’t run into this one.

View of the Cordillera Blanca from Huaraz. Photo by James M. Holmes.

June 18, 2012 – Huaraz, Peru

More acclimatizing. I meet the expedition team, just in from the Pisco Valley. Eager to see the neighborhood, we venture around. Huaraz, a town of ~150,000 people, displays a unique combination of old Andean culture, modern Peruvian culture, and climbing culture. I quickly learn that my Spanish is very bad… but a smile and a laugh seem to go a long way.

Mingling in Huaraz. Photo by James M. Holmes.

June 19, 2012 – Ishinca Valley

The hike into the Ishinca Valley passes quite diverse ecosystems – from terraced farmland to semi-arid grasses to polylepis forests – all fed by streams from the mountains above. I have my first taste of science in the field as I help expedition co-leader, Dr. John All, take ground control point observations for his studies of changes in the landscape over time. Really, he is doing me a favor – forcing me to move slowly and acclimatize.

Ishinca Valley – Kate von Krusenstiern, Dr. John All. Photo by James M. Holmes.

June 20, 2012 – Ishinca Valley

We scout the upcoming climbing routes on Urus Este and Ishinca, while Dr. Bernhard (Benny) Bach and others help Dr. Rebecca Cole with her vegetation studies. We take more ground control point observations. From Urus Este you can see the remains of a massive glacial lake outburst flood (GLOF) beneath which our basecamp lies. I’m glad nature already got that out of her system.

Remains of a GLOF below Tocllaraju – View from Urus Este. Photo by James M. Holmes.

June 21, 2012 – Urus Este

Despite scouting the route yesterday, we overshot the start and were rewarded with some scrambling. Cold air, clear night – beautiful weather. The group took snow samples at selected elevations and the summit for Dr. Carl Schmitt’s black carbon research. Every afternoon, including this one, we got clouds and precipitation – an unusual phenomenon for what I understand is the region’s dry season.

Urus Este Summit (17,782 ft) – Kate von Krusenstiern, the Author, Dr. Carl Schmitt. Photo by Dr. John All.

June 22, 2012 – Glacier on Tocllaraju

Nursing a minor knee injury from Urus Este, I volunteer to climb with Dr. Carl Schmitt to a glacier at 16,400 ft on Tocllaraju, while the rest of the team climbs Ishinca (18,143 ft) for more snow samples. On our glacier, Carl takes air samples, and expedition co-leader, Ellen Lapham, takes control samples simultaneously at base camp. The science behind our work on the glacier is way over my head, but it has something to do with a hypothesis that CO2 can form by some yet-to-be-discovered process over large snowfields... Don’t ask me; read the paper when it comes out.

Dr. Carl Schmitt Sampling the Air on Tocllaraju. Photo by James M. Holmes.

June 23, 2012 – Ishinca Valley

A fellow climber is quite ill and not recovering at the still relatively high altitude of base camp (14,400 ft). I volunteer to descend a day early and accompany him back to Huaraz. It’s a nice day for a hike.

Leaving the Ishinca Valley. Photo by James M. Holmes.

June 24, 2012 – Huaraz, Peru

Today is my last day before heading back to Lima and on to New York. Feeling better at the lower altitude, we check out the local bouldering spot, Huanchac. Our new friends in the combi were excited to ride with the crash pad.

Collin Steiner Working Out a Move. Photo by James M. Holmes.

Looking Back – New York, NY

The Ishinca Valley was a major undertaking for me. For the ACSP, it was just one of eight weeks, just two of more than a dozen peaks. And it’s just the beginning. The expedition just wrapped up with climbs of Alpamayo and Quitaraju, and now the scientists will return to the U.S. for the real science – the laboratory analysis, the writing, the peer review, the publishing. And then the next expedition in 2013! I will eagerly follow their progress, and you can too: visit the American Climber Science Program page on Facebook, or visit the page on the American Alpine Club’s website. And maybe we’ll see you in Peru in 2013!

Wish You Were Here! Photo by Collin Steiner.

James M. Holmes

New York, NY

Photo from the K2 Movie Showing at the Rubin

Becky Nichols, wife of Explorers Club President Alan Nichols and American Alpine Club Exec. Director Phil Powers at the Rubin Museum for a screening of "K2."

Ausable Club Weekend Photos from John Tiernan

On Saturday, June 23^rd, finding the Garden parking lot full in Keene Valley, Wayne Wilson and I dropped our plan to explore the new Bennie's Brook slide, and redirected to the Marcy Dam fire-truck trail to investigate the other new slide at Avalanche Pass.

Shortly after we arrived at the new Avalanche Pass Slide and the lake, a thunderstorm came in and chased us to a cave we'd spotted on the way in, where we sat out the downpour. But because of all the rain we didn't get onto the slide.

Sunday morning after the pancake breakfast I went to see the other new slide on Cascade Mountain and climbed a few hundred feet of elevation till the incline exceeded 40 degrees and I backed off to try again when I have company.

All the new slides we saw look like exciting Class 4 ways to get to summits, and we understand that the slide on Bennie's Brook connects bottom to top with no detours.

--submitted by John Tiernan

Note the double fall-line, to the left and to the bottom, on the new Avalanche Pass slide.

Two years later, where the beaver dam had been on the trail to Marcy Dam, showing effect of Hurricane Irene.

"Altitude With Attitude" Cabaret Film Series Friday Evenings: July 6-23, Rubin Museum

The American Alpine Club NY Section is proud to announce it is co sponsoring a series of dramatic, classic mountain films with the Rubin Museum of Art ( 7th Avenue & 17th Street). Each of these feature-length films will be introduced by a knowledgeable AAC member. Admission is free with a $7 bar minimum. Please note that each film begins at 9:30 PM, except the first which begins at 7:00 PM. Seating is cabaret style in the comfortable, state of the art Rubin Theater. If you are a new member, this is a chance to meet the presenters and well as socializing with fellow AAC members and Section officers.

LOST HORIZON
Friday, July 6, 2012 @7:00PM

1937, USA, Frank Capra, 132 min.
Starring Ronald Coleman, Jane Wyatt, Sam Jaffe, and John Howard

One of the great classic mountain films, Lost Horizon will be introduced by AAC member and documentary film maker Ted Vaill
Free with a $7 bar minimum. Reservations at 212-620-5000

THE MOUNTAIN
Friday, July 13, 2012 @9:30 PM

1956, USA, Edward Dmytryk, 105 min.
Starring Spency Tracy, Robert Wagner and Claire Taylor

An adventure story in the Alps, this film is based on the 1952 Henri Troyat novel,
La Neige en Deuil

Introduced by expedition leader and Explorers Club medalist Fritz Selby
Free Admission with a $7 bar minimum.

K-2
Friday July 20, 2012 @9:30PM

1991, USA, Franc Roddam, 102 Min.
Starring Michael Biehnm Matt Craven and Annie Grindlay

Adapted from the stage play, K-2 marked new advances in adventure film making, complete with avalanches and other disasters.

Introduced by AAC Executive Director and K-2 climber Phil Powers
Free with a $7 bar minimum

SEVEN YEARS IN TIBET

Friday, July 27, 2012 @9:30PM

1997, USA, Jean-Jacques Annaud, 134 Min.
Starring Brad Pitt, David Thewlis, BD Wong, and Mako

A film based on moutaineer Henrich Harrer's encounters with the young Dalai Lama.

Presenter to be announced.
Free with a $7 bar minimum

More Photos from the Adirondack Summer Outing

Don at Lower Ausable Lake

Andrew Miller on Haystack

Don on Haystack with Storm Closing In

Tony and Julian Stauffer on Haystack

Julian and Andrew at the Boathouse

Tony and Julian on Haystack with the Storm from Behind

Tony, Julian, and Andrew at Upper Boathouse

Don Healy on Noonmark

First Photos from the Summer Weekend at the Ausable Club in the Adirondack High Peaks

First picture of a beaver in the pond on the Ausable Club on the way to Round Pond.

Beaver in the pond on Yellow Trail at the Ausable Club to Round Lake.

Both photos submitted by Vic Benes.

AAC NYS Training Hike - June 17th



Looking to get ready for summer hiking season?

Vic Benes is running a moderate (~ 10-12 miles) hike in Harriman Park on Sunday June 17 (Father's Day), rain or shine. The #401 Short Line bus leaves Port Authority at 8:23 AM, and arrives in Tuxedo at 9:17 AM. Depending on how many people come from Manhattan by bus, some drivers shall volunteer or be recruited to meet that bus in the commuter parking just across the tracks after a right on East Village Rd. on RT. 17 going N in Tuxedo. Drivers not so engaged should muster at Reeves Brook on 7 Lakes Drive and wait for the bus contingent. One hike option is the blue/white blazed 7 Hills trail that starts at Reeves parking, with return along Reeves Brook, but there are others; the choice may depend on the availability of parking at the Reeves Brook lot at that hour, and on preferences as to length and severity expressed en route. Bring boots, lunch, liquids, sunblock, and rain gear. Others of the Ten Essentials are optional. Please register your intent to join us with vabenes@earthlink.net or call him on his cell 798 662 3991.

Live Your Dream grant winners announced for the Northeast!

Congratulations to the 2012 Live Your Dream grant winners for the Northeast Region!

Erik Eisele: $500
Erik Eisele’s and partner Michael Wejchert’s dream is to push the alpine skills they’ve acquired and honed in the mountains of New England out into the word’s greater ranges. Eisele and Wejchert will live this dream by attempting a new route on Urus Este (5,420 m) in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca.

Sean Yaw: $500
Sean Yaw’s dream is to climb a big route in the mountains, a route that will take multiple days on technical terrain. This summer, before graduate school and a “nine-to-five job with health insurance and two weeks of vacation a year” that he sees inevitably in his future, he will live this dream via an attempt, with partner Bryan Friedrichs, of a route on Broken Tooth (9,050′) in the Alaska Range.

Brian Threlkeld and Paul Clifford: $500
Brian Threlkeld and Paul Clifford share a dream to climb as an efficient team, traveling light and fast on technical alpine rock. They will spend two weeks this summer on the long, remote climbs of the Cirque of the Towers in the Wind River Range, pushing their alpine rock skills to the next level, both individually and as a team.

Alison Criscitiello: $500
Alison Criscitiello and partner Lauren Peritz both dream of being well-rounded climbers with the skills to be able to travel comfortably in the mountains on technical snow, rock, ice, and mixed terrain. Criscitiello describes herself as a mountaineer comfortable on ice and snow. Peritz, on the other hand, is primarily a rock climber with less experience in the big mountains. Together, they will visit the Little Swtzerland area of the Central Alaska Range and climb the long rock routes off the Pika Glacier that will require their combined skill sets and allow them to both teach and learn from each other.

Note from Grant Committee chairperson and Northeast Regional Coordinator Sarah Garlick:

Our committee consisted of Carolyn Riccardi, Pete Ward, Jack Tracy, Freddie Wilkinson, and Sarah Garlick. Freddie was off in Nepal on an expedition, so he emailed and phoned in his opinions from his tent! We received so many inspiring applications, it was quite difficult to narrow them down to the final grant winners. The committee looked for the applications that distinguished themselves from the others. In the end, the winners held two main things in common: their proposed projects demonstrated a clear progression in their personal climbing experiences, and they also demonstrated that they would help them attain long-held climbing dreams.
The committee would like to congratulate all the grant winners and wish them safe and successful climbing trips. We are looking forward to the next round of Live Your Dream grant applications, deadline September 1. We loved all the alpine climbing applications in the first round, so keep them coming — but please spread the word to your rock climbing friends too! We’d love to see more sport climbing, trad climbing, and bouldering applications! —Sarah Garlick



Yosemite In The Sixties—A Slide Lecture by Glen Denny
Join the New York Section of the American Alpine Club, Monday, May 14

Glen Denny speaks about this magical era of Yosemite, and shows some of his incredible photography from that time.

Explorers Club
46 East 70th St.
New York, NY 10021

Reception : 6-7 p.m.
Talk & Film: 7 p.m.
Admission: $20
Call 212-628-8383 with credit card data
The sheer granite walls of Yosemite Valley have drawn many types of visitors over the decades. But they particularly galvanized a dedicated group of rock climbers, who saw the nearly holdless, glacier-polished faces as the purest form of challenge. The awesome faces of Half Dome and El Capitan were first climbed in the late 1950s, ushering in a new era of rock climbing later known as the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing. During this era, the climbers of the sixties developed the techniques, tools, and philosophies that made Yosemite the most important and influential rock climbing arena in the world.

In the spirit of the social changes of the sixties, a small group of committed climbers dropped out of the mainstream of work and society and took up residence in Camp 4, perfecting their skills and developing a unique social scene. This austere, boulder-strewn campground became the epicenter of the climbing world. In between spectacular feats carried out on the walls, it served both as a launching pad for further adventures and a refuge from them. Here plans were made, teams were formed, and the rest of life was lived. The significance of Camp 4 was recently recognized in its placement on the National Register of Historic Places.

Photographer and filmmaker Glen Denny was one of the denizens of Camp 4 in the sixties. He scaled the big walls of Yosemite Valley with many of the climbing icons of the 1960s, including Warren Harding, Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, Yvon Chouinard, Chuck Pratt, and Layton Kor. Camera in hand, Glen captured both the gritty reality and the sunny optimism of those years on film. This slide lecture, based on his award-winning book, “Yosemite in the Sixties,” gives an insider’s view of the classic ascents and colorful characters of this important era through images, stories, and anecdotes. The show is approximately 70 minutes long, plus Q&A.

Glen Denny’s climbing films have won awards at several film festivals; his photography has appeared in a number of publications, culminating in his 2007 book, “Yosemite in the Sixties,” the source of the photographs in this slide lecture. “Yosemite in the Sixties” has won prizes at the Banff Mountain Book Festival and the National Outdoor Book Awards. Glen currently lives in San Francisco.

Payment must accompany reservation. Tickets are secured only when a credit card is provided at the time the reservation is made. Reservations made without a credit card are not secured and tickets will be forfeited by 6:50pm the evening of the lecture.
Reservations are suggested on a first-come, first-served basis. Please call 212-628-8383, Fax 212-228-4449, or email reservations@explorers.org

American Alpine Club Seeks Climbers for the 2012 International Climbers’ Meet in Yosemite

The American Alpine Club is hosting the 5th annual International Climbers’ Meet (ICM), We would like to extend an invitation to AAC members to attend this event to be held the week of October 8 - October 13, 2012 in Yosemite Valley. Experience with placement and removal of protection, multi-pitch rope management, at least two years of technical rock climbing, and the ability to follow sustained 5-8 granite is mandatory. Participating AAC members will have the opportunity to interact and climb with a diverse group of climbers from a multitude of countries.

The fee is $450 USD per person. Participants provide their own transportation to Fresno, California airport.
Your fee includes:

• Pick up Fresno airport October 7 by 7:00 PM local time, drop off at Fresno airport October 14 by 11:00 AM local time.
• Transportation in Yosemite Valley
• Six nights and days camping at secluded Yellow Pines camp ground
• Three catered meals per day
• Five and one half days of climbing in spectacular Yosemite Valley
• One half day of a stewardship project for Yosemite Valley National Park
• Nightly campfire for storytelling, socializing, and general carousing
• Partner with other participants or experienced host climbers

Last year’s meet was a rousing success. Participants enjoyed climbing everything from all day long routes to challenging short climbs. We hosted climbers of all levels from more than eight different countries . Accounts of the day’s adventures were shared every evening over dinner, beers, and the glowing campfire. Come join the fun in the premier American climbing area of Yosemite Valley.

Deadline for applications is July 1.

For more information and application go to: www.americanalpineclub.org/p/internationalclimbersmeet

Kids "Climb Everest" at the Rubin Museum: An Overnight Mountaineering Experience
It's time for Peak Experience VII: a program presented by the AAC New York Section and the Rubin Museum of Art.

Saturday May 12 – Sunday May 13, 2012
Rubin Museum of Art 150 W. 17 St., NYC 10011

Forty kids, aged 9-12 roped together alpine style, confront the challenges of climbing Mt. Everest. They discover the beauty, consider the perils, experience the culture and practice team dynamics. Their expedition leader is world-renowned high altitude mountaineer Robert M. Anderson. He is aided by Sherpa guides from Nepal and experienced climbers from around the world. The goal is not only to reach the summit, but also for all return unharmed. The children carefully make their way to each of the four camps along the Museum’s great spiral staircase. Here they learn safety techniques, leadership skills, Sherpa culture and the life lessons embodied in Himalayan art. Frostbite, oxygen and the brain, and why things feel heavier the higher you go will be issues the kids will confront. Together over the course of the evening, they share an astonishing experience: a fully simulated ascent of the highest mountain on earth.

Check out this cool trailer about the climb: http://www.rmanyc.org/peakThere are still spots left for your kids! AAC Members receive discounted tickets.
Tickets: $175 / AAC Members and Rubin Members $ 157.50
Please call 212.620.5000 x344 to buy tickets. Be sure to mention your AAC Membership for the discounted rate.

Member Holly Mauro - 1979-2012 & Memorial Service on 4/14/2012

Holly Mauro
December 26, 1979 - March 27, 2012

A little over a year ago, on April 1, 2011, a young member of the NY Section set off upon an adventure to follow her passion. She left behind friends, New York City, a successful career in corporate real-estate finance, and a cozy home in New Paltz. The plan was to move into her car and climb as much as possible. This adventure was chronicled in the blog “Life After Banking: The Camp 4 Diaries” http://thecamp4diaries.blogspot.com/ .

Holly Mauro had gotten her start in climbing a mere 7 years earlier. A corporate guided ascent of the Grand Teton in the summer of 2004 set her off on a new course in life. Never one to do something in a small way, Holly quickly devoted herself to becoming a skilled and accomplished rock climber. She became a member of the NY Section of the AAC in 2005 and soon expanded from her usual and much loved vacation stomping grounds of Red Rocks, Joshua Tree and Acadia National Parks, to the greater climbing destination of the American west. In 2008, Holly took a temporary break from her job in New York, driving 14,000 miles by herself in four-and-a-half months. During that trip she climbed in Zion, Yosemite, the California Needles, the High Sierras, Devil’s Tower, Smith Rocks, Squamish, Index, the Bugaboos, Lake Louise, Eldorado Canyon, Lumpy Ridge, Rocky Mountain National Park, the Tetons, and City of Rocks. This turned out to be a teaser for the 2011 adventure that was to follow. As sad as we were to have Holly leave NY, we were excited to follow our fellow member on her new adventures. What ensued was a wild ride of climbing, adventure and travel.

Tragically, on April 4, 2012, the following note appeared on Holly's Facebook page: "Holly has left us and the world as we know it, in the beautiful park she loved-Yosemite.  She lived more in her 32 years than most could dream to do in multiple lifetimes. Please celebrate her life by remembering her and choosing in your own lives to love and live your passions."

All of us who knew Holly and shared climbs and times at her house in New Paltz are deeply saddened by this sudden loss. As climbers we share a unique bond as we literally have each other's lives in our hands. Holly was a bright and passionate soul, and she touched many lives on her brief journey. To borrow from other postings … Holly was "like a super nova star...burned brightly and quickly", "a force of nature", "such a Light, always hungry, loved sweets", "alive and radiant", “this Shooting Star of vibrant light passed through a prism and thrown about the room”, “Her presence on this Earth will be missed as the sun has raised up too far to pass her rays through the prism”.

-Written by AAC NYS Member Howard Sebold

There will be a celebration of Holly’s life this Saturday, April 14, at 5:00pm Hosted by Bill & Jen Rhoric 159 Sparkling Ridge Road (off Rt 299) New Paltz, NY

This will be a "pot luck" dinner, but dessert was one of Holly's favorite things, so bring something sweet in addition to real food. Directions can be found here.

Polish Rulers of the Himalayas - Movie Screening and Book Presentation - Friday March 30th @ 7:30PM

The Consulate General of Poland in New York in cooperation with The Kosciuszko Foundation and The Jan Karski Institute present

POLISH RULERS OF THE HIMALAYAS

Movie Screening and Book Presenation
Special Guests - Authors:
Bernadette McDonald & Jerzy Porebski

Friday, March 30th, 2012 at 7:30 PM

The Consulate General of Poland in New York
233 Madison Avenue (@ 37 Street)
(Jan Karski Corner)
New York, NY 10016

CLICK HERE TO RSVP AND REGISTER

Ethiopia: Climbing and Coffee With Patagonia Ambassador Majka Burhardt

On Monday, March 12th, please join Patagonian Ambassador Majka Burhardt, Top Exploratory Rock Climber and Motivational Speaker, and hear about her recent adventures in Ethiopia's vertical world.

Location: Patagonia Tin Shed, 2625 Broadway @ 100th Street ( Subway 1,2, 3 to W 96th Street)
Time: 6:30 PM
Cost: FREE

Check out more about Majka at this site.

Follow Up to the Kurt Diemberger and Philip Liberman Talk at the Rubin Now Available

Please visit this link for more information and a recap.

Everest Hip Hop - Tuesday March 27, 2012

As he eased into retirement at the age of 61, Don Healy finally started to exercise and six months later (March 2007) was in good enough shape to take up a life-long dream to climb high mountains. His dream came true on May 24, 2010 when he reached the summit of Mt. Everest, just six days after celebrating his 65th birthday at Camp 2.

His “Everest Hip Hop” lecture documents his four year journey from “couch potato” to the highest point on earth – with a total hip replacement along the way (the result of a bicycle accident – not climbing!). The presentation includes stunning photos of his climbs as well as interesting facts about Everest and mountaineering in general.

Tuesday Evening Hour
March 27, 2012 – 6:30 PM
Location: Private Rooms 2 & 3 in the West Wing
49 Fulton Street/Block South Street Seaport
Phone: (212) 964-3936
www.EverestHipHop.com

Photos by Michael S. on a Screwless Ascent with Vic and Ron

Ron in Pinnacle Gully

Ron emerging from Pinnacle Gully

Everest - Fantasy Ridge Presentation - 2/28/2012 6:30PM

EVEREST - FANTASY RIDGE
A Special Presentation
by
KURT DIEMBERGER
February 28th, 2012, 6:30 PM
Wilbur Cross High School
181 Mitchell Drive New Haven, CT 06511

Presented by the City of New Haven’s Department of Parks, Recreation and Trees Outdoor Adventure Program
MARTIN TORRESQUINTERO, PROGRAM COORDINATOR

MOUNT EVEREST, also known in Nepali as SAGARMATHA (Goddess of the sky) and in Tibetan as CHOMOLUNGMA (mother Goddess of the universe), stands at 8848 meters or 29,029 feet. For many years, it was the ultimate challenge.
However, every climbing season (before or after the monsoons), climbers continue to break records, to the point that they are
now expected to be shattered.

However, the Great Ridge or EVEREST - FANTASY RIDGE remains the ultimate Everest challenge. From the first ascent of Shartse, onwards over the top of Everest to the far end in Tibet, it still eludes climbers, never having been conquered. Come hear how Kurt Diemberger has envisioned it, after his two decades of expeditions to Everest.

KURT DIEMBERGER is the only person alive to have the distinction of making first ascents of two of the world’s 8,000 meter peaks, Broad Peak in 1957 and Dhaulagiri in 1960. He climbed each without supplemental oxygen, and
Broad Peak, which he climbed with the late Hermann Buhl and two others, was the first eight-thousander to be climbed in West-Alpine-Style, long before this technique became widely used on the Himalayan giants. Kurt has, in all,
climbed six of the eight-thousanders. However, he is probably best known for his 30-year association with K2, and for surviving the 1986 tragedy which claimed the lives of 13 climbers. This became the subject of one of climbing’s most widely read books, The Endless Knot, and the award-winning movie Mountain of Dreams and Destiny. In addition, he has climbed in virtually all of the world’s mountain ranges, including many first ascents, from Africa to the Himalayas, and from South America to Greenland. He has received many awards for films, photographs, and literature. He is one of the most renowned climbers, an influential writer, and an indomitable survivor.

Ticket Info:
$10 in advance - cash, check or visa/mastercard if it's greater than $20.
203-946-8027
or at the park's office
720 Edgewood Avenue New Haven, CT 06515
$12 at the door - cash or check only

Michael, Vic, and Ron's Climbing Weekend

View of Tuckerman Ravine

Tuckerman Ravine

Huntington Ravine, Odell Gully

Huntington Ravine, Pinnacle Gully

Hutington Ravine, Central Gully

Michael Belays Ron on Dracula Right

Gear Check Below Fan on Pinnacle Gully

Gear Check Below Fan on Pinnacle Gully

Michael on Dracula Left

Ron on Dracula Right

Ron on Dracula Right