RELEASE PARTY - YANKEE ROCK & ICE: A History of NE Climbing

Come Get Your Signed Copy Of The New Yankee Rock & Ice!

When: Wednesday, Nov. 14, 7pm
Where: Patagonia Meatpacking, 414 W. 14th St., NYC 10014

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Join us at Patagonia Meatpacking for an intimate discussion with Laura Waterman and Michael Wejchert - the two who - along with Guy Waterman - wrote the book on rock climbing in the Northeastern United States. We'll have a presentation from the authors and an opportunity to have your book signed afterwards.  Snacks and drinks provided, so please make sure to bring your reusable cup with you. 

First published in 1993 by Guy and Laura Waterman and hailed as a classic,Yankee Rock & Ice is now reissued in a new edition with four new chapters covering the 1990s through today.

Yankee Rock & Ice is a comprehensive and entertaining history of rock and ice climbing in the Northeast, traces the growth of these popular sports in New England and New York, and covers the trailblazers of the 18th century through today’s events and personalities. Well-known mountaineers and preservationists, Guy and Laura Waterman have explored every corner of the mountains of New England and New York and done solid historical research on first ascents of classic routes and the climbers who have made them legendary. Climber Michael Wejchert joins Laura for the work on the second edition.

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NY Section Autumn dinner has been canceled

It is with some sadness that I share the news that after more than three decades we will be suspending the annual NY Section dinner. The plan is to develop a more intimate event in the spring for those looking to spend a formal evening with friends, and then a larger, more accessible gathering for the fall of 2019. The reasons for this are many, including the time and effort required to put on an event of this magnitude as well as the changing demographics of the Club. These issues had been a source of discussion among the dinner committee over the last several years. This year circumstances combined to make canceling the dinner the prudent option. 

We wholeheartedly thank the many of you who supported the Section and the dinner over the years. It was a special event that spoke to the spirit of the New York climbing community. A true extension of gratitude must be made to former NY Section Chair Phil Erard, who conceived of the dinner in the early 1980s and whose tireless effort and endless enthusiasm kept the dinner going for the past 30+ years. Thank you, Phil!

I know that some of you will be disappointed with this news. It was a decision not taken lightly. It’s now time to forge ahead into the possibilities of the new. Please consider joining us at one of our Section Outings or at the new events in the spring or next fall.

Best regards,

NYC Film Premiere, Free Solo

When: Friday, Sept. 28, showtime TBD
Where: Angelika Film Center New York, NY

From award-winning documentary filmmaker E. Chai Vasarhelyi and world-renowned photographer and mountaineer Jimmy Chin, the directors of “MERU,” comes FREE SOLO, a stunning, intimate and unflinching portrait of free soloist climber Alex Honnold, as he prepares to achieve his lifelong dream: climbing the face of 3,200-foot El Capitan in Yosemite National Park without a rope. There will be a Q&A with the filmmakers opening weekend.  View Trailer

If there is enough interest, we will reserve discounted group tickets and host a social after the film. Please RSVP.

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NY Section Members In North Cascades

Metro NY Section Members Rob Bixby and Greg van Inwegen just returned from a North Cascades climbing trip with AAC member and Guide Marty Molitoris of New Paltz based Alpine Endeavors. The team summited Sahale on July 16th and Forbidden Peak via the South Ridge on July 17, both from Boston Basin. 

Ron reports that conditions were excellent.  Snow had receded from most rock climbing areas the week before.  They had perfect weather for both climbs. There was a helicopter rescue of a guy who fell in a moat coming off the glacier below Mt Torment the day before they climbed Forbidden. The moats are tricky and claimed a fatality a few years ago.  There was some crevasse hazards as well. The couloir from glacier to Forbidden south ridge col is well traveled and was getting pretty thin with some holes thru it. Careful climbing was required.  South Ridge is a popular climb and was fairly crowded.  They did an alpine start to avoid the back-up at the couloir.  1am start from Boston Basin lower camp, across the glacier by daylight, up the couloir in an hour, up the ridge and summit at noon, back to Boston Basin by 7:00pm. Congrats to Rob, Greg and Marty on a great trip.

Climbing the couloir (photo provided by AAC member Ron Bixby)

 

NYC Film Screening - Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey

Thursday, June 28, 7:30pm
GP81, 81 Quay Street, Greenpoint, Brooklyn

Join us at one of NYC newest gyms, GP81 for Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey, a documentary film celebrating the life and legacy of the original “dirtbag” mountaineer, who died last year at 94. Fred is a true American icon, whose monumental first ascents and eloquent stories inspired generations of climbers to get out and find adventure. Come check out the gym, get a deal on a day-pass and learn about the rebel athlete who pioneered the dirtbag lifestyle and set the standard for what it means to be truly "committed."

GP81 is a new bouldering gym located in Greenpoint, Brooklyn that was designed and built by local climbers. It is a training-focused facility catering directly to the NYC climbing community. A full fitness set-up and densely packed boulder problems allow any dedicated climber to make gains and see improvements. The gym features 6,500 sq ft of climbing terrain, including two Moon Boards, a custom GP81 board, and walls of 30, 45 and 60 degrees.
 

Film tickets are $15 in advance/$18 at the door and include beer and a GP81 koozie. Tickets can be purchased in advance by calling GP81 at 347-689-3082 or stopping by the gym. The gym will be be open all day and seating for the movie begins at 7pm. Space is limited, RSVP below to reserve your spot and then purchase the tickets directly from GP81.

 

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2018 Spring Outing

Roberts Cottage at the Ausable Club

Though a cool rainy weekend was forecast for May 18-20, the weather held for the most part allowing us to log time on the lake, trails and crags. Our group was smaller this year making for a more intimate gathering. As usual after a day out and about, Saturday happy-hour was held at Roberts Cottage followed by a great dinner at the Club bar. Will Helmetag, 2017 Live Your Dream Grant winner and Dad Peter recounted their adventures exploring, via sailboat, Devils Bay, Chaleur Bay, and Rencontre Bay, with the objectives to climb Leviathan and develop new trad routes on these newly discovered walls. This was followed by Mark Aiston reporting on the Section trip to the Scottish Highland last June. From what he remembers through the haze of rain, cloud and scotch it was a successful trip and he had the pictures to prove it. Sunday we woke to clouds and rain, but our annual pancake breakfast took the edge off. For those that stuck around the weather cleared by late morning making for another epic day. A big thank you to all the volunteers who helped make this Outing a great one.

Early Saturday morning start for Ron, Andrew, Mark and the crew.

Looking down on lower Ausable Lake

Adirondack Adventures - Spring Outing

METRO NY SECTION, AUSABLE CLUB (Dacks) OUTING

Friday, May 31 - Sunday, June 2
Ausable Club, St. Huberts, NY

A spring Section tradition, the annual Adirondack Outing at the Ausable Club near Keene Valley is not to be missed. Activities include: rock climbing, hiking in the High Peaks, swimming and boating on Ausable Lakes or golf, tennis, etc. on the property. Available spots for the weekend are very limited. See link below for info and registration. Please email the NY Section Chair if interested. Registration Deadline, May 27th, 2019.

See the NYC Premiere of the Film "Mountain"

 

ANNOUNCING THE NYC Film premiere, mountain

Friday, May 11
Village East, 189 2nd Ave.

PURCHASE TICKETS

A vertiginous juxtaposition of image and music that explores the powerful force that mountains hold over our imaginations. From Tibet to Australia, Alaska to Norway armed with drones, Go-Pros and helicopters, the filmmakers have fashioned an astonishing symphony of mountaineers, ice climbers, free soloists, heli-skiers, wingsuiters snowboarders and parachuting mountain bikers. Willem Dafoe provides a narration sampled from British mountaineer Robert Macfarlane's acclaimed memoir Mountains of the Mind, and a classical score from the Australian Chamber Orchestra accompanies this majestic cinematic experience. #Mountain

Section Gunks Work Weekend Wrap-Up

We had a beautiful weekend for the 3rd Annual Metro New York Section, Gunks Campground work weekend. Nineteen AAC Staff and volunteers turned out to helped get the campground ready for the 2018 season. We enjoyed a communal dinner, campfire, beverages & s'mores Saturday night. Sunday was a gorgeous day and most of us headed to the cliff for some well deserved climbing. A big thank you to all that lent a hand.

NY Section, Gunks Campground Work/Play Weekend

Friday, April 20 - Sunday, April 22
Gunks Campground, Gardiner, NY

Begin your spring climbing season in style this April. Join the NY Section as we kick off the camping season with our Gunks Campground work-and-play weekend. In exchange for free camping, lunch, Saturday night dinner and two additional free nights camping over the summer, we ask participants to donate one day of the weekend to help get the campground ready for the season. See link below for info and registration. Public and private transportation options available.

GUNKS REGISTRATION

Join us for this annual Section tradition and a chance to rekindle old friendships, make new ones and give back to the Gunks.

Camp BKB (x) - EARTH DAY & NATIONAL PARKS WEEK CELEBRATION

Friday, April 20, 6pm-9pm
Brooklyn Boulders, Queensbridge, NYC

BKB is bringing the outdoor climbing experience into the gym at Camp BKB(x): A Spring Showcase & American Alpine Club Fundraiser. Join for destination climbing routes by the Brooklyn Boulders Expeditions team, gym-to-crag workshops with the American Alpine Club, "anchor bolts, knots & hItches" classes by REI, yoga, live music, plus fuel and brews from Clif Bar, High Brew, Fields Good Chicken and Sierra Nevada.

$5 of every ticket purchase benefits the American Alpine Club.

 $15 BKB & AAC Members
$24 Guests (includes day pass)

TICKETS

Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey

FILM PREMIERE WITH SPECIAL GUEST CLIMBER BARRY BLANCHARD

Friday, March 23 
Doors 7PM    Film 7:30PM
PATAGONIA MEATPACKING, 414 West 14th St 

Join Patagonia MaPa for Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey, a documentary film celebrating the life and legacy of the original “dirtbag” mountaineer, who died last year at 94. Fred is a true American icon, whose monumental first ascents and eloquent stories inspired generations of climbers to explore this amazing planet. Barry Blanchard will kick off the evening with stories of rock, ice and the impact Fred had on the climbing community. We’ll also enjoy snacks and beer and give you the chance to win a pair of our newest climb pants at this free event!

Reservations are not required, but arrive early to get a seat.

Banff Film Festival In NYC

What: Banff Mountain Film Festival – NYC
When: Saturday–Wednesday, March 3-7, 7:30pm
Where: Symphony Space, 2537 Broadway, New York
 
The Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour is returning for a record 5-night run this year. Doors open at 7:00 pm. Arrive early and hear alphornist Barbara Oldham at 7:15. We will be hosting a table at the event. Come by and say hello.


TICKETS AND INFO

Meet the Photograhper, Jim Herrington - CANCELED

  


DUE TO A FIRE AT ARC'TERYX SOHO THIS EVENT IS CANCELED

What:  Book discussion and presentation "The Climbers"
When: Tuesday, Feb. 27, 7:30pm
Where: Arc'teryx Soho, 69 Spring St., New York

Event co-sponsored with Arc'teryx Soho. Jim Herrington will be presenting his photography book The Climbers, winner of the Grand Prize at the Banff Mountain Book Competition. This is the culmination of a 20-year project to track down and document the surviving legendary climbers of the early-to-mid 20th Century ‘Golden Age’ of climbing. The stories of these climbers and their era are inspiring and captivating, and Herrington's effort to locate, travel to, and get them in front of his camera includes anecdotes of despair, hilarity and adventure.


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AAC ANNUAL DINNER, NY SECTION GATHERING

What: Section meet-up at the Annual Dinner
When: Saturday, Feb. 24, 4:30pm-6pm
Where: The Fairmont Copley Plaza Bar, Boston, MA

Drop in and join your fellow Section members attending the Annual Dinner for a casual pre-dinner gathering in the hotel bar. Good friends and good conversation. Please let me know if you will be joining. RSVP, Metro NY Section Chair.

Live Your Dream Grant Now Open For Applications!

The American Alpine Club’s Live Your Dream grant, powered by The North Face, is currently accepting applications for the 2018 grant cycle—and this year we're awarding climbers like you over $70,000 to live your dream trip!

Since 2012, the AAC and The North Face have awarded nearly 400 every-day adventures with over $200,000 to help take their abilities to the next level. This grant is about personal progression—about supporting each other to push our limits. Be it transitioning out of the gym or establishing a first ascent in the greater ranges, the purpose of this grant is to create opportunities for climbers to dream big, to grow, and to inspire others.

2018 Winter Outing

Guide's House, Rock & River Lodge

The annual Metro NY Section Adirondack Winter Outing was held January 19-21. Conditions were excellent and it may have been one of best weekends of the winter so far. As usual, we booked the entire Rock & River Lodge in Keene, NY, for the exclusive use of NY Section members and guests. We sold out and had an enthusiastic crew of both new faces and longtime friends.

As luck would have it the World Cup Ski Aerials were taking place at the Lake Placid Olympic Ski Jump complex. May of us took the chance to watch upcoming Olympic hopefuls soar 40 feet in the air twisting and turning before landing it... hard. It was amazing to watch. After happy-hour and a delicious meal catered by Rob Hastings of Rivermede Farm Sophie Helneck inspired us with her 2010 climb of Huantsán mountain, Peru. Sophie and her team put 2 new routes on the mountain and were featured in the 2011 AAJ.

Please mark your calendars for January 25-27, 2019 and a very special 30th Anniversary of the Winter Outing at Rock & River. In lieu of our regular climbing presentation we will be sharing stories and photos of the Outing from the past 30 years. I look forward to seeing some of you again at the upcoming Club events below.

• Feb. 23-24, Boston, MA - AAC Annual Benefit Dinner, celebration of the 1978 American K2 Expedition
• I will host a Section Meet-up at the Fairmont Copley Plaza Bar on Saturday, 4pm-6pm.

• Feb. 27, Arc'Teryx Soho, NYC - Jim Herrington will be presenting his photography book The Climbers, the culmination of a 20-year project to track down and document the surviving legendary climbers of the early-to-mid 20th Century ‘Golden Age’ of climbing.. Details here, https://www.eventbrite.com/e/lecture-series-with-jim-herrington-tickets-41716186236

• Mar. 3-7, Symphony Space NYC, Banff Film Festival

• April 7-8 - Annual Gunks Campground Volunteer work weekend

• May 18-20 - Annual Spring Outing in the Dacks

Additional pictures from the Winter Outing below.

Best regards,

Howard

Waterfall at Poko

X-skiing was perfect!

World Cup Ski Aerials

Rock climbing the chimney

Each morning starts with a fabulous breakfast buffet as teams plan their day

ONE WEEK TO APPLY FOR THE AAC & JONES SPLITBOARD GRANTS!

The American Alpine Club and Jones Snowboards are proud to announce two new grants that encourage human-powered exploration of the winter wilderness by motivated amateur backcountry snowboarders! The Jones Backcountry Adventure Grant & the Jones Live Like Liz Award look to support multi-day splitboarding expeditions with a strong exploratory and adventure components. The project objective may focus on a single descent/summit or a tour/traverse of a region. Each grant recipient will receive a $1,500 cash award plus a Jones splitboard, skins and backcountry touring backpack. The applications are accepted now through January 30th, 2018. Jones Snowboards company founder Jeremy Jones and Jones brand managers will review all applications and select the recipients.

LEARN MORE + APPLY NOW!

Last Call, Annual Winter Outing Jan. 19th-21st

On the ascent of Algonquin Peak (5,115 ft), MacIntyre Range, Adirondacks, Outing 2016

The January "thaw" not withstanding, this is shaping up to be a fantastic winter in the NE. Conditions are great upstate and we have an almost full house for our annual Winter Outing. In addition to ice climbing, there are many other winter pursuits at our doorstep including snowshoeing, cross-county or downhill skiing, rock climbing the Lodge chimney and of course, relaxing with a beverage around the fire. This are only a very few spots left. Please email me ASAP, newyork@americanalpineclub.org if interested.