Metro NY Section Members Rob Bixby and Greg van Inwegen just returned from a North Cascades climbing trip with AAC member and Guide Marty Molitoris of New Paltz based Alpine Endeavors. The team summited Sahale on July 16th and Forbidden Peak via the South Ridge on July 17, both from Boston Basin.
Ron reports that conditions were excellent. Snow had receded from most rock climbing areas the week before. They had perfect weather for both climbs. There was a helicopter rescue of a guy who fell in a moat coming off the glacier below Mt Torment the day before they climbed Forbidden. The moats are tricky and claimed a fatality a few years ago. There was some crevasse hazards as well. The couloir from glacier to Forbidden south ridge col is well traveled and was getting pretty thin with some holes thru it. Careful climbing was required. South Ridge is a popular climb and was fairly crowded. They did an alpine start to avoid the back-up at the couloir. 1am start from Boston Basin lower camp, across the glacier by daylight, up the couloir in an hour, up the ridge and summit at noon, back to Boston Basin by 7:00pm. Congrats to Rob, Greg and Marty on a great trip.
Climbing the couloir (photo provided by AAC member Ron Bixby)